Ilso Clean Mud Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask

Ilso Clean Mud Cream Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off oil-control boost.

This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off pore-care boost.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Kaolin

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Hectorite

1,2-Hexanediol

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Sorbitan Olivate

Cetearyl Olivate

Cetyl Alcohol

Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Ethylhexylglycerin

Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract

Polyisobutene

Butylene Glycol

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract

Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract

Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Sorbitan Oleate

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Centella Asiatica Extract

Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hectorite, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phoenix Dactylifera Fruit Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Opuntia Coccinellifera Fruit Extract, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Centella Asiatica Extract

Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder

Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract

Ultramarines

CI 77491

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Water, Glycerin, Kaolin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder, Hectorite, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Ultramarines, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Polyisobutene, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, CI 77491, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane

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Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

This ingredient is a mild surfactant made by sticking glucose onto a blend of fatty acids.

It does two jobs because it has a sugar head that loves water and a fatty tail that loves oil:

Typical use levels range from 10-20% in cleansers and 15-30% in shower products.

Once on your skin, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down into glucose and the parent fatty alcohols.

This ingredient is considered fungal acne safe because its fatty alcohol portion sits outside the Malassezia yeast's metabolization range.

Cetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.

You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.

These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.

This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.

Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract comes from the beach strawberry. This is a strawberry native to Pacific coasts of North America, South America, and Hawaii. It likes to grow on sandy beaches.

Beach strawberries have antioxidant and moisturizing properties. They contain many compounds that are potent antioxidants, such as anthocyanins and Vitamin C.

The sugar, or polysaccharides, in strawberries help hydrate the skin by increasing water retention.

Strawberries also contain acids such as ellagic acid, a compound that may protect our skin against UVB damage. Another acid present is citric acid.

Fun fact: The strawberry we buy and eat today was created as a hybrid from the beach strawberry.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.

As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.

Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.

We don't have a description for Hectorite yet.

This ingredient comes from the English Ivy, a climbing evergreen plant. The extract is rich in compounds that give it antioxidant, skin conditioning, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Two of the compounds, Alpha-Hederin and Hederasaponin-C, showed strong inhibition of shown to be effective at protecting against oxidative damage as well as synthetic antioxidants like butylated hydroxyanisole and BHT.

Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.

Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.

Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.

The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.

Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.

Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.

It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.

Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.

This ingredient comes from the common pear and has skin conditioning/skin protecting properties. Pears are rich in bioactive phenolic compounds, with the most notable ones being Arbutin, Chlorogenic Acid, and Catechin.

A small in-vivo study with 13 volunteers found using a 5% pear extract gel over 12 weeks significantly improved skin moisture and elasticity, and decreased melanin and sebum levels compared to placebo.

In phytochemical analysis, this extract has also demonstrated anti-tyrosinase activity which further supports its brightening properties.

Just so you know, individuals with birch pollen allergy should be careful and patch test this ingredient as pears belong to the same family. But topical use of this ingredient is generally well-tolerated.

We don't have a description for Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract yet.

This long ingredient is a copolymer of sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers.

It is used to help stabilize other ingredients and create a thicker gel-like texture.

Emulsifiers prevent oils and waters from separating.

Sorbitan Oleate is a PEG-free emulsifier made by esterifying sorbitol with oleic acid.

You'll likely see it paired with Polysorbate 80 to create the right emulsification balance.

Typical use levels in formulas range from 2-10%.

The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as a cosmetic ingredient.

Since this ingredient is an ester of oleic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Oleic acid is a fatty acid that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.

Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.

Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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