Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare The Max Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum

IMAGE skincare The Max Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin tex

IMAGE skincare The Max Serum Versus Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex Serum

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Bifida Ferment Lysate and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Carbomer

Glycerin

Polysorbate 20

Sucrose Palmitate

Glyceryl Linoleate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Phenoxyethanol

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Limonene

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Potassium Sorbate

Butylene Glycol

Pullulan

Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Isomalt

Propylene Glycol

Centella Asiatica Extract

Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Pvp

Echinacea Purpurea Extract

Citric Acid

Xanthan Gum

Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture

Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein

Sodium Benzoate

Sodium Lactate

Lecithin

Glycine Soja Protein

Sodium Hydroxide

Superoxide Dismutase

PEG-8

Ethylhexylglycerin

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract

Caprylyl Glycol

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract

Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract

Plankton Extract

Citral

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Biotin

Water, Carbomer, Glycerin, Polysorbate 20, Sucrose Palmitate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Limonene, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Sorbate, Butylene Glycol, Pullulan, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Isomalt, Propylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Pvp, Echinacea Purpurea Extract, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Leontopodium Alpinum Meristem Cell Culture, Nannochloropsis Oculata Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Lactate, Lecithin, Glycine Soja Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Superoxide Dismutase, PEG-8, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phaseolus Radiatus Meristem Cell Culture Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Argania Spinosa Callus Culture Extract, Plankton Extract, Citral, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Biotin

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Propanediol

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Methyl Gluceth-20

Glycereth-26

PEG-75

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Tripeptide-32

Faex Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Cola Acuminata Seed Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Hydrolyzed Algin

Pantethine

Caffeine

Sodium Rna

Bisabolol

Squalane

Oleth-3 Phosphate

Oleth-3

Oleth-5

Choleth-24

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters

Ceteth-24

Triethanolamine

Tetrasodium EDTA

BHT

CI 14700

CI 19140

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, PEG-8, Propanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Methyl Gluceth-20, Glycereth-26, PEG-75, Butylene Glycol, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Tripeptide-32, Sodium Hyaluronate, Faex Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Cola Acuminata Seed Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Algin, Pantethine, Caffeine, Lecithin, Sodium Rna, Bisabolol, Squalane, Glycerin, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Oleth-3, Oleth-5, Choleth-24, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters, Ceteth-24, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Tetrasodium EDTA, BHT, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, CI 19140

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

PEG-8 is a synthetic polymer used as a humectant and solvent.

This ingredient is able to help dissolve active ingredients, including water. This gives it humectant properties.

It is soluble in water. The number '8' stands for the molecular weight of the ingredient.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients List

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycolic Acid
  3. 03Ammonium Laureth Sulfate
  4. 04Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate
  5. 05Ammonium Hydroxide
  6. 06Glycerin
  7. 07Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
  8. 08Phenoxyethanol
  9. 09Glycol Distearate
  10. 10Laureth-10
  11. 11Caprylyl Glycol
  12. 12Ammonium Sulfate
  13. 13Ammonium Chloride
  14. 14Menthol
  15. 15Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  16. 16Ethylhexylglycerin
  17. 17Hexylene Glycol
  18. 18Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
  19. 19Sodium Benzoate
  20. 20Sodium Chloride
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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