Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum Versus Derma E Vitamin C Concentrated Serum

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum Versus Derma E Vitamin C Concentrated Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to hydrate skin. This brightening serum is formulated around So

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum Versus Derma E Vitamin C Concentrated Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to hydrate skin.

This brightening serum is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Water

Glycerin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Limonene

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate

Stearic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Panthenol

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Xanthan Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Squalene

Propylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glucosamine Hcl

Hexylene Glycol

Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate

PEG-8

Pisum Sativum Extract

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract

Tocopherol

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Olea Europaea Leaf Extract

Disodium EDTA

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Yeast Polysaccharides

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Carbomer

Eugenol

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Citric Acid

Benzoic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract

Taurine

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Potassium Sorbate

BHT

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Darutoside

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Arginine

Leucine

Lysine

Sodium Benzoate

Valine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limonene, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Panthenol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalene, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucosamine Hcl, Hexylene Glycol, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, PEG-8, Pisum Sativum Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Tocopherol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Yeast Polysaccharides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Carbomer, Eugenol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Benzoic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Taurine, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Potassium Sorbate, BHT, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Darutoside, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Arginine, Leucine, Lysine, Sodium Benzoate, Valine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Cellulose Gum

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice

Maltodextrin

Lactobacillus

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Aloe Barbadensis Extract

Allantoin

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Sodium Citrate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Cellulose Gum, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Maltodextrin, Lactobacillus, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Extract, Allantoin, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti Aging SerumIngredients explained

  1. 01Aloe Vera is one of today’s magic plants. It does have some very nice properties indeed, though famous dermatologist Leslie Baumann warns us in her book that most of the evidence is anecdotal and the plant might be a bit overhyped.
  2. 02What research does confirm about Aloe is that it’s a great moisturizer and has several anti-inflammatory (among others contains salicylates, polysaccharides, magnesium lactate and C-glucosyl chromone) as well as some antibacterial components. It als…
  3. 03Good old water, aka H2O. The most common skincare ingredient of all. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product.
  4. 04It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water.
  5. 05Expand to read more
  6. 06Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) is drying.
  7. 07One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). Like this, the products can stay more stable over time.
  8. 08A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin
  9. 09A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years
  10. 10Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier
  11. 11Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits for dry skin at higher concentrations up to 20-40%
  12. 12High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin
  13. 13The essential oil coming from the sweet orange. In the case of orange (and citruses in general), the essential oil is mainly in the peel of the fruit, so it's pretty much the same as the orange peel oil (also has the same CAS number - a unique ID as…
  14. 14Its main component is limonene (up to 97%), a super common fragrant ingredient that makes everything smell nice (but counts as a frequent skin sensitizer).
  15. 15A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, it’s light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. It’s a nice ingredient that just feels good on the skin, is super well tolerated by ever…
  16. 16A super common and cheap fragrance ingredient. It's in many plants, e.g. rosemary, eucalyptus, lavender, lemongrass, peppermint and it's the main component (about 50-90%) of the peel oil of citrus fruits.
  17. 17It does smell nice but the problem is that it oxidizes on air exposure and the resulting stuff is not good for the skin. Oxidized limonene can cause allergic contact dermatitis and counts as a frequent skin sensitizer.
  18. 18Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components.
  19. 19All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive - the cons probably outweigh the pros.
  20. 20An often used emollient with a light and silky feel. It's very mild to both skin and eyes and spreads nicely and easily. It's often used in sunscreens as it's also an excellent solvent for sunscreen agents.
Source · incidecoder.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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