Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum Versus Medik8 Daily Radiance Vitamin C

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum Versus Medik8 Daily Radiance Vitamin C This hydrating serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to hydrate skin. This brightening day moisturizer is formulated arou

IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Anti-Aging Serum Versus Medik8 Daily Radiance Vitamin C

This hydrating serum is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate to hydrate skin.

This brightening day moisturizer is formulated around Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Tocopheryl Acetate to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Water

Glycerin

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Limonene

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Cetearyl Olivate

Sorbitan Olivate

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Cetyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate

Stearic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Panthenol

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil

Xanthan Gum

Caprylyl Glycol

Butylene Glycol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Squalene

Propylene Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glucosamine Hcl

Hexylene Glycol

Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate

PEG-8

Pisum Sativum Extract

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate

Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract

Tocopherol

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

Olea Europaea Leaf Extract

Disodium EDTA

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Yeast Polysaccharides

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Carbomer

Eugenol

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Citric Acid

Benzoic Acid

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Sodium Lactate

Polysorbate 20

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract

Taurine

Corallina Officinalis Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Potassium Sorbate

BHT

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Darutoside

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Arginine

Leucine

Lysine

Sodium Benzoate

Valine

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Limonene, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Panthenol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalene, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucosamine Hcl, Hexylene Glycol, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, PEG-8, Pisum Sativum Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Tocopherol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Disodium EDTA, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Yeast Polysaccharides, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Carbomer, Eugenol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Benzoic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract, Taurine, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Potassium Sorbate, BHT, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Darutoside, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Arginine, Leucine, Lysine, Sodium Benzoate, Valine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

Dibutyl Adipate

Ethylhexyl Triazone

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Coco-Glucoside

Cetearyl Glucoside

Hydroxyacetophenone

Citrus Grandis Peel Oil

Sodium Hydroxide

Dehydroacetic Acid

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Citronellol

Linalool

Geraniol

Citral

Water, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Dibutyl Adipate, Dimethicone, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Disodium EDTA, Benzoic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Limonene, Citronellol, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Benzoic Acid is an organic acid that shows up in cosmetics as a preservative. It helps keep a product from spoiling by holding back the growth of yeast, mold, and some bacteria.

This ingredient also functions as a fragrance ingredient that helps mask the unpleasant scent of other ingredients.

The way it works is worth understanding; benzoic acid works when the formula is acidic. It is able to sneak into a microbe's cell and mess up how it functions to stop it from growing in an acidic product.

However, the acid switches to an inactive form and stops working if a product isn't acidic enough (above ~5 pH). This is why you'll often see it in low pH products or teamed up with other preservatives to cover the gap.

Safety wise, it's one of the better studied preservatives out there.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%.

A large international review found this ingredient had no effects on the human body and had low irritation potential.

Just so you know, real world use is usually much lower than the 5% ceiling (usually 1% of less).

The EU caps it at 2.5% in rinse-off products, 1.7% in oral care, and 0.5% in leave-on products.

One thing worth mentioning (it's nothing to worry about): some people get a little stinging or flushing where they apply it. This isn't a true allergy; it's a temporary and harmless reaction. This is the same kind of mild tingle you might notice from sorbic acid.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.

In cosmetics, it plays several roles:

The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.

This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.

It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.

Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.

Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.

Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.

The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).

In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.

So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  2. 02So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  3. 03You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
  4. 04Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  5. 05Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  6. 06Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  7. 07Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  8. 08This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  9. 09Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  10. 10Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  11. 11Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
  12. 12It’s often used to:
  13. 13Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
  14. 14Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
  15. 15It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
  16. 16This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
  17. 17Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
  18. 18Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
  19. 19No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
  20. 20Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

IMAGE skincare The Max Masque

IMAGE skincare The Max Masque Ingredients in IMAGE skincare The Max Masque explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 67 ingredients including Water, Kaolin, and Caprylic/Capri…

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side