Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

inde wild Dewy Lip Treatment Versus hyphen Vitamin Infused Peptide Lip Balm

inde wild Dewy Lip Treatment Versus hyphen Vitamin Infused Peptide Lip Balm This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips. This anti-aging lip moisturizer is for

inde wild Dewy Lip Treatment Versus hyphen Vitamin Infused Peptide Lip Balm

This barrier-repair lip moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to strengthen the lip barrier and hydrate lips.

This anti-aging lip moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate lips.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Diisostearyl Malate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Microcrystalline Wax

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Dextrin Palmitate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Silica Dimethyl Silylate

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Synthetic Wax

Euphorbia Cerifera Wax

Squalane

Punica Granatum Seed Oil

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Tocopherol

Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

Dehydroacetic Acid

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Water

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract

Oligopeptide-1

Geraniol

Citronellol

Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Bis-Behenyl/Isostearyl/Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Microcrystalline Wax, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Dextrin Palmitate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Synthetic Wax, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Squalane, Punica Granatum Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopherol, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Dehydroacetic Acid, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Water, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Oligopeptide-1, Geraniol, Citronellol

Helianthus Annuus Flower

Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters

Propylene Glycol

Paraffin

Polyurethane-79

Glycol Montanate

Tocotrienols

Tripeptide-1

Hexapeptide-9

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Tapioca Starch

Vanillin

Caprylyl Glycol

Sucralose

Glycerin

Polysorbate 20

CI 77891

CI 77499

CI 77492

CI 45410

CI 45380

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Helianthus Annuus Flower, Olive Oil PEG-7 Esters, Synthetic Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol, Paraffin, Squalane, Polyurethane-79, Glycol Montanate, Tocotrienols, Linoleic Acid, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tapioca Starch, Vanillin, Caprylyl Glycol, Sucralose, Glycerin, Water, Polysorbate 20, CI 77891, CI 77499, CI 77492, CI 45410, CI 45380

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Linoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.

Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.

Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.

Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.

One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.

This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.

Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.

Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.

Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.

Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Synthetic Wax is a manufactured hydrocarbon wax. In formulas, it works as an occlusive emollient that helps reduce water loss and improves the spreadability of products.

Research comparing synthetic wax to traditional mineral-derived products found that formulas containing it perform as well for skin hydration.

It is considered non-comedogenic and vegan-friendly.

This ingredient has a well-established safety record by the CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety.

Synthetic Waxes are straight/branched-chain hydrocarbons with no ester bond or fatty acids. That means there is nothing for the Malassezia yeast to feed on.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
  14. 14So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
  15. 15You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

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