iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Extreme Cream Firming & Lifting Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer

iNNBEAUTY PROJECT Extreme Cream Firming & Lifting Moisturizer Versus Paula's Choice Pro-Collagen Peptide Plumping Moisturizer

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76 to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

C13-15 Alkane

Squalane

Propanediol

Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate

Bisabolol

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Glycerin

Magnesium Sulfate

Panthenol

Glyceryl Behenate

1,2-Hexanediol

Butylene Glycol

Heptapeptide-7

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate

Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide NP

Tremella Fuciformis Extract

Allantoin

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Arginine

Glycosphingolipids

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Tetraacetylphytosphingosine

Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate

Stearic Acid

Cetearyl Alcohol

Glyceryl Glucoside

Glyceryl Stearate

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Tocopherol

Carnosine

Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Benzoate

Phenoxyethanol

Citric Acid

Quaternium-90 Bentonite

Mica

Triethyl Citrate

Zinc Stearate

Ethylhexylglycerin

Gluconolactone

Calcium Gluconate

Hydroxyacetophenone

Water, C13-15 Alkane, Squalane, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-5 Polyricinoleate, Bisabolol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Glycerin, Magnesium Sulfate, Panthenol, Glyceryl Behenate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Heptapeptide-7, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Allantoin, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Arginine, Glycosphingolipids, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Polyglyceryl-6 Octastearate, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Citric Acid, Quaternium-90 Bentonite, Mica, Triethyl Citrate, Zinc Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Gluconolactone, Calcium Gluconate, Hydroxyacetophenone

Dimethicone

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Gigartina Stellata Extract

Tridecapeptide-1

Oligopeptide-1

Sodium Phytate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Cyanocobalamin

Water, Dimethicone, Squalane, Glycerin, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Gigartina Stellata Extract, Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate, Tridecapeptide-1, Oligopeptide-1, Sodium Phytate, Propanediol, Lecithin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Sh-Hexapeptide-5 Amide Acetate (aka Versillin or Acetyl Hexapeptide-70) is a synthetic peptide designed to mimic Versican.

Versican is a large structural protein found in the skin's extracellular matrix that helps bind water and organize collagen + elastin fibers.

According to the formulation data published by its manufacturer, the peptide works by inhibiting elastase and certain matrix metalloproteinases (the enzymes that break down elastin).

It also encourages the production of tropoelastin and hyaluronic acid.

The caveat to this ingredient: like many newer specialty peptides, the supporting evidence is primarily in vitro and manufacturer sponsored rather than independent, peer-reviewed clinical trials.

Exact concentrations are not usually disclosed by the supplier either but peptides of this type are generally formulated in the 0.5-5% range.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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