Skin science article
innisfree Green Tea Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus innisfree Retinol Cica Moisture Recovery Serum
innisfree Green Tea Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus innisfree Retinol Cica Moisture Recovery Serum This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This smoothing serum is fo
innisfree Green Tea Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus innisfree Retinol Cica Moisture Recovery Serum
This hydrating serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.
This smoothing serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Asiaticoside to refine skin texture and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Alcohol Denat.
1,2-Hexanediol
Trehalose
Niacinamide
Betaine
Saccharide Isomerate
Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil
Cetearyl Olivate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sorbitan Olivate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Butylene Glycol
Squalane
Panthenol
Allantoin
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Tromethamine
Ceratonia Siliqua Gum
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hyaluronic Acid
Dextrin
Theobroma Cacao Extract
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Linalool
Limonene
Poloxamer 235
Sucrose
Lactic Acid
Epigallocatechin Gallate
Ethoxydiglycol
Tocophersolan
Poloxamer 338
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., 1,2-Hexanediol, Trehalose, Niacinamide, Betaine, Saccharide Isomerate, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sorbitan Olivate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Panthenol, Allantoin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Tromethamine, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Linalool, Limonene, Poloxamer 235, Sucrose, Lactic Acid, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Ethoxydiglycol, Tocophersolan, Poloxamer 338, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Dibutyl Adipate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Cholesterol
Glycine Soja Oil
Tocopherol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Pentylene Glycol
Adenosine
Asiaticoside
Madecassic Acid
Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract
Asiatic Acid
Retinol
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Mannitol
Ceramide NP
Carbomer
Beta-Glucan
Beta-Carotene
Phytosphingosine
Salicylic Acid
Acacia Senegal Gum
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Propylene Glycol Alginate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Niacinamide, Dibutyl Adipate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cholesterol, Allantoin, Glycine Soja Oil, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Methyl Stearoyl Taurate, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Camellia Sinensis Seed Extract, Asiatic Acid, Retinol, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Hyaluronic Acid, Mannitol, Ceramide NP, Carbomer, Beta-Glucan, Beta-Carotene, Phytosphingosine, Salicylic Acid, Acacia Senegal Gum, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Propylene Glycol Alginate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!