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Skin science article

innisfree UV Active Poreless Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30

innisfree UV Active Poreless Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30 This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50. This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~9

innisfree UV Active Poreless Sunscreen SPF 50+ PA++++ Versus Paula's Choice Resist Super-Light Wrinkle Defense SPF 30

This hybrid sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This mineral sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~97% of UVB at SPF 30.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Zinc Oxide

Cyclohexasiloxane

Caprylyl Methicone

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Propylheptyl Caprylate

Butylene Glycol

Trimethylsiloxysilicate

Methyl Trimethicone

Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Disteardimonium Hectorite

Magnesium Sulfate

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Dimethiconol

Trisiloxane

1,2-Hexanediol

Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Silica

CI 77891

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Caprylyl Glycol

Glyceryl Caprylate

CI 77492

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Hyaluronate

CI 77491

CI 77499

Tocopherol

Hydroxystearic Acid

Glycerin

Aronia Arbutifolia Extract

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment

Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract

Stellaria Media Extract

Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract

Water, Zinc Oxide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Butylene Glycol, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Methyl Trimethicone, Lauryl Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Sodium Potassium Aluminum Silicate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Magnesium Sulfate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Dimethiconol, Trisiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Silica, CI 77891, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Caprylyl Glycol, Glyceryl Caprylate, CI 77492, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, CI 77491, CI 77499, Tocopherol, Hydroxystearic Acid, Glycerin, Aronia Arbutifolia Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Nelumbium Speciosum Flower Extract, Stellaria Media Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract

Cyclopentasiloxane

PEG-12 Dimethicone

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

Lauroyl Lysine

Sodium Chloride

Trihydroxystearin

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Resveratrol

Quercetin

Epigallocatechin Gallate

Tocopheryl Acetate

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Adenosine

Bisabolol

Salix Nigra Bark Extract

Punica Granatum Extract

Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract

Hydrolyzed Corn Starch

Polysorbate 80

Hydrated Silica

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate

Hexylene Glycol

Iron Oxides

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Zinc Oxide, PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Lauroyl Lysine, Sodium Chloride, Trihydroxystearin, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Resveratrol, Quercetin, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Adenosine, Bisabolol, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Polysorbate 80, Hydrated Silica, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Iron Oxides, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Triethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicon-based surface modifier that makes sunscreens feel silky and makeup stay put.

Its main job is to coat mineral particles like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and color pigments in a thin, oily layer so they spread smoothly, don't clump, and stick to skin better.

This ingredient is typically used at low levels (up to 2.5% in eyeshadow and 1% in lipstick).

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Zinc Oxide (ZO) is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter and the broadest-spectrum filter recognized by the FDA. It covers everything from UVB through to long-wave UVA.

On top of sun protection, it has skin protectant and skin-soothing properties too.

Here's a myth worth busting: mineral filters are usually described as working by "reflecting" or "bouncing" UV off your skin.

That's mostly not true: when researchers actually measured it, ZO and Titanium Dioxide reflect only about 4-5% of UV (less than SPF 2 worth of protection).

The vast majority of the work (~95%) is done by absorption, similar to chemical UV filters. ZO is a semiconductor that absorbs UV photos through its energy band gap.

So the old "physical blocker vs. chemical absorber" framing is really an oversimplification.

Zinc Oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters out there. It protects across UVB, UVA2, and UVA1 with a flat, even absorption curve across the whole UVA-UVB range.

That uniform UVA coverage is its standout feature; titanium dioxide skews more toward UVB as its particle size drops so ZO gives more consistent and extended UVA protection.

It's also very photostable. As an inorganic oxide, ZO doesn't break down in sunlight the way some organic filters can, so it holds up over a day of wear.

This ingredient is gentle and soothing, making it go-to for sunscreens aimed at sensitive skin, rosacea, or ecezma-prone skin, babies, and children.

It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" that some sunscreen ingredients are known for, and regulatory agencies broadly consider it non-toxic and safe for topical use.

Beyond sun protection, ZO is also a recognized OTC skin protectant. It forms a breathable barrier that shields skin from moisture and irritation while supporting healing. This is why you'll see it as a classic active in diaper rash creams.

The only downside to ZO is that it can leave a visible white cast, especially on deeper skin tones. This is the main reason mineral sunscreens have historically felt less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas.

Zinc Oxide comes in both non-nano and nano forms. The dividing line is 100nm and anything under is classified as a nanomaterial by the EU.

The nano version scatters less visible light which cuts down white case and gives a lighter, more wearable texture.

Another thing worth understanding about formulation:

Uncoated ZO has some inherent photocatalytic activity. This just means it can generate reactive oxygen species under UV. It's exactly why cosmetic-grade ZO is almost always surface-coated; this coating suppresses that reactivity and improves how the powder disperses and feels.

A well-formulated coated ZO largely sidesteps this issue.

Zinc Oxide is commonly used anywhere from 10% up to the regulatory maximum in sunscreens (25%).

Mineral-only broad-spectrum products often land in the 15-25% range to hit higher SPF and UVA values. Keep in mind SPF performance depends heavily on particle size, dispersion, and the rest of the formula, and not just the percentage.

As an OTC skin protectant like diaper creams, ZO typically runs higher at roughly 10-40%.

This ingredient is generally easy to work with and doesn't photodegrade.

The only thing to know is that uncoated ZO can be a bit reactive in a formula.

Under UV, it can break down sensitive ingredients like other actives or UV filters. This is another reason coated versions are standard. ZO can also react with very acidic ingredients or throw off stability of some creams. A good formula will get around this with the right coatings and dispersion.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that ZO nanoparticles "can be considered to not pose any risk of adverse effects in humans after application on healthy, intact or sunburnt skin".

You might hear that ZO is "toxic"; this is because an in-vitro (test tube) study suggested micronized ZO had potential phototoxicity. In vivo (human) investigations have disputed this and the results have come back reassuring.

So does ZO penetrate skin? The short answer is no, not in any way that matters.

The most relevant evidence comes from real-world human studies: in one, volunteers applied ZO nanoparticle sunscreen hourly for six hours and daily for five days. The advanced imaging showed the particles stayed on the surface and never reached the living epidermis, and no cellular toxicity was found.

Other in-vivo and ex-vivo work agree; ZO nanoparticles don't cross the stratum corneum, even on flexed, massaged, or barrier-impaired skin.

A small amount of solubilized zinc ions can dissolve off the particles and enter the upper skin. But the quantities are tiny compared to the zinc already naturally present in your body, and studies haven't found this to cause local toxicity.

The sunscreen bans you've heard of (like Hawaii's) are aimed at two chemical filters, Oxybenzone and Octinoxate. ZO itself it not banned and is often recommended instead.

So far, there's no solid evidence that any form of ZO harms reefs. It is an ongoing and active area of study, and worth keeping an eye on.

If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Butylene Glycol
  3. 03Polysorbate 20
  4. 04Cetyl Alcohol
  5. 05Salicylic Acid
  6. 06Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
  7. 07Cyclopentasiloxane
  8. 08Sorbitan Stearate
  9. 09Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  10. 10Lauric Acid
  11. 11Allantoin
  12. 12Glycerin
  13. 13Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  14. 14Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
  15. 15Epilobium Angustifolium Extract
  16. 16Dimethicone
  17. 17Xanthan Gum
  18. 18Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
  19. 19PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
  20. 20Sodium Hydroxide
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Paula's Choice Shine Stopper

Paula's Choice Shine Stopper Paula's Choice Shine Stopper ingredients explained: Aqua, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer (Film-Forming Agent/Absorbent Polymer), Capryli…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side