Skin science article
innisfree Youth Enhancing Treatment Essence with Black Tea + Peptides Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 95 + Peptide Essence
innisfree Youth Enhancing Treatment Essence with Black Tea + Peptides Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 95 + Peptide Essence This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
innisfree Youth Enhancing Treatment Essence with Black Tea + Peptides Versus JUMISO Snail Mucin 95 + Peptide Essence
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.
This barrier-repair essence is formulated around Snail Secretion Filtrate and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
No concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water 95%
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Niacinamide
1,2-Hexanediol
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Adenosine
Dextrin
Ectoin
Hyaluronic Acid
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Glutathione
Mannitol
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Butylene Glycol
Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Glycine Max Polypeptide
Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Copper Tripeptide-1
Disodium EDTA
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Caprylyl Glycol
Acetyl Heptapeptide-4
Sorbic Acid
Hexapeptide-9
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Sodium Hydroxide
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water 95%, Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Dextrin, Ectoin, Hyaluronic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Mannitol, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Copper Tripeptide-1, Disodium EDTA, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Sorbic Acid, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Snail Secretion Filtrate
Betaine
Ethyl Hexanediol
Allantoin
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Polyacrylate
Carbomer
Sodium Hyaluronate
Panthenol
Arginine
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Snail Secretion Filtrate, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Ethyl Hexanediol, Allantoin, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Water, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Adenosine, Arginine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!