Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

IntraCeuticals Collagen Serum Versus ISDIN Isdinceutics Hyaluronic Concentrate

IntraCeuticals Collagen Serum Versus ISDIN Isdinceutics Hyaluronic Concentrate This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This hydrating serum is formulated ar

IntraCeuticals Collagen Serum Versus ISDIN Isdinceutics Hyaluronic Concentrate

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Palmitoyl Oligopeptide and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.

This hydrating serum is formulated around Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Soluble Collagen

Sodium Hyaluronate

Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Propanediol

Butylene Glycol

Vegetable Oil

1,2-Hexanediol

Caprylyl Glycol

Dicaprylyl Ether

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Lauryl Glucoside

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

Citric Acid

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Glyceryl Oleate

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Sodium Benzoate

Water, Glycerin, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Anogeissus Leiocarpus Bark Extract, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Vegetable Oil, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Lauryl Glucoside, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Oleate, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Benzoate

Dimethicone

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Glycereth-26

Lecithin

Maltodextrin

Pentylene Glycol

Lens Esculenta Seed Extract

Parfum

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Xanthan Gum

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sodium Lactate

Sodium Salicylate

Salicylic Acid

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Water, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Glycereth-26, Lecithin, Maltodextrin, Sodium Benzoate, Pentylene Glycol, Lens Esculenta Seed Extract, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Lactate, Sodium Salicylate, Salicylic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".

"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.

This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:

Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.

You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.

Fungal acne note: Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Sea Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Butylene Glycol
  4. 04Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
  5. 051,2-Hexanediol
  6. 06Alcohol Denat.
  7. 07Niacinamide
  8. 08Glycereth-26
  9. 09Adenosine
  10. 10Hydrolyzed Collagen
  11. 11Hyaluronic Acid
  12. 12Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
  13. 13Sodium Hyaluronate
  14. 14Soluble Collagen
  15. 15Collagen Extract
  16. 16Atelocollagen
  17. 17Propanediol
  18. 18Cyclopentasiloxane
  19. 19Trehalose
  20. 20Carbomer
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

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03

Comparison edit

Read side by side