ISDIN Gel Cream Dry Touch SPF50 Versus Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Daily Restoring Complex SPF 30

ISDIN Gel Cream Dry Touch SPF50 Versus Paula's Choice Moisture Boost Daily Restoring Complex SPF 30

This chemical sunscreen covers the full UV range and blocks ~98% of UVB at SPF 50.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinyl Palmitate to brighten dull-looking skin and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Octocrylene

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

Dibutyl Adipate

Talc

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Cyclopentasiloxane

Tromethamine

Cyclohexasiloxane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Cellulose

Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol

Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Polyacrylamide

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Carbomer

Panthenol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Parfum

Decyl Glucoside

Xanthan Gum

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Disodium EDTA

Laureth-7

BHT

Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate

Linalool

Lysine

Propylene Glycol

Magnesium Chloride

Water, Alcohol Denat., Octocrylene, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Dibutyl Adipate, Talc, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tromethamine, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cellulose, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polyacrylamide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Carbomer, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Decyl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Laureth-7, BHT, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Linalool, Lysine, Propylene Glycol, Magnesium Chloride

Homosalate

Ethylhexyl Salicylate

Benzophenone-3

Butylene Glycol

Vp/Eicosene Copolymer

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone

Glyceryl Stearate

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Retinyl Palmitate

Tocopherol

Picea Abies Wood Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Titanium Dioxide

Bentonite

Ethylhexylglycerin

Sodium Polyacrylate

Sodium Hydroxide

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Homosalate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Benzophenone-3, Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butylene Glycol, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Picea Abies Wood Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Titanium Dioxide, Bentonite, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Also known as Avobenzone, this ingredient is an oil-soluble used to absorb the full spectrum of UVA rays (peak 357 nm).

It's one of the most effective UVA filters available but has a major caveat of photostability: avobenzone is susceptible to photodegradation.

This means it can lose efficacy when exposed to sunlight without the help of a stabilizing agent.

Studies show antioxidants (like vitamin E or vitamin C) and some UV filters (like octocrylene and Tinosorb S) can meaningfully improve its stability in a formulation.

The maximum allowable concentration according to regulation is 3% in the US + Canada, and 5% in the EU, Australia, China, Korea, and ASEAN countries.

It has a well-support safety profile: a comprehensive 2025 review found minimal toxicity with no evidence of carcinogenicity.

Overall, avobenzone is a safe and regulated ingredient used in sunscreen for over 40 years.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.

In cosmetics, it plays several roles:

The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.

This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.

It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.

Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.

This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.

Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.

Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.

The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).

In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.

So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Octocrylene is an oil-soluble organic UV filter that mainly absorbs UVB and short wave UVA II light.

Its real superpower is teamwork: octocrylene is remarkably photostable and is most famous for stabilizing avobenzone (the workhorse UVA filter).

This ingredient is commonly used to enhance both UVB and UVA protection due to its unique property in stabilizing avobenzone. It also pulls double duty by boosting water resistance and giving formulas a smooth, spreadable feel.

The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) has deemed octocrylene to be safe as a UV-filter at concentrations up to 10% (capped at 9% in propellant sprays). The US also permits it up to 10%.

Two things worth knowing:

You'll usually see this ingredient used in concentrations between 2-10% (higher amounts when used as a stabilizer for avobenzone).

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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