Skin science article
Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant
Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant This smoothing essence is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This smoothing exfoliator is formu
Isntree Chestnut AHA 8% Clear Essence Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant
This smoothing essence is formulated around Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycolic Acid
Lactic Acid
Butylene Glycol
Glycerin
Potassium Hydroxide
1,2-Hexanediol
Castanea Crenata Shell Extract
Panthenol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Centella Asiatica Extract
Asiaticoside
Asiatic Acid
Madecassic Acid
Madecassoside
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Allantoin
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
Sucrose Stearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Caprylate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Madecassoside, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Allantoin, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Sucrose Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Hydroxide
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Aloe Ferox Leaf Juice Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Sodium PCA
Propylene Glycol
Polyquaternium-10
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycolic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Aloe Ferox Leaf Juice Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyquaternium-10, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!