Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Isntree Chestnut BHA 2% Clear Liquid Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant

Isntree Chestnut BHA 2% Clear Liquid Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and clear breakouts. This smoothing exfoliat

Isntree Chestnut BHA 2% Clear Liquid Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant

This pore-care exfoliator is formulated around Salicylic Acid to refine the look of pores and clear breakouts.

This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Mandelic Acid and Lactic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Propanediol

1,2-Hexanediol

Salicylic Acid

Castanea Crenata Shell Extract

Sodium Hydroxide

Glycerin

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Salix Alba Bark Extract

Allantoin

Water, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Salicylic Acid, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Glycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Allantoin

2,3-Butanediol

Mandelic Acid

Lactic Acid

Myrica Cerifera Fruit Extract

Akebia Quinata Stem Extract

Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract

Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate

Saccharomyces Lysate

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Saccharide Isomerate

Arginine

Hydroxyacetophenone

Sodium Phytate

Pentylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Sodium Benzoate

Water, 2,3-Butanediol, Mandelic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Myrica Cerifera Fruit Extract, Akebia Quinata Stem Extract, Prunus Lannesiana Flower Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Arginine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Sodium Hyaluronate
  4. 04Hyaluronic Acid
  5. 05Ceramide NP
  6. 06Ceramide AP
  7. 07Ceramide EOP
  8. 08Phytosphingosine
  9. 09Yeast Extract
  10. 10Adenosine
  11. 11Cholesterol
  12. 12Panthenol
  13. 13Silanetriol
  14. 14Butylene Glycol
  15. 15Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
  16. 16Carbomer
  17. 17Xanthan Gum
  18. 18Citric Acid
  19. 19Sodium Hydroxide
  20. 20Polysorbate 20
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side