Skin science article
Isntree Clear Skin 8% AHA Essence Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant
Isntree Clear Skin 8% AHA Essence Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin. This smoothing exfoliator is formul
Isntree Clear Skin 8% AHA Essence Versus Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 8% AHA Gel Exfoliant
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Lactic Acid and Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
This smoothing exfoliator is formulated around Glycolic Acid to refine skin texture and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Lactic Acid 4.023%
Glycolic Acid 4.004%
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Potassium Hydroxide
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glyceryl Caprylate
Asiaticoside
Dextrin
Panthenol
Madecassoside
Allantoin
1,2-Hexanediol
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Water, Lactic Acid 4.023%, Glycolic Acid 4.004%, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Asiaticoside, Dextrin, Panthenol, Madecassoside, Allantoin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose
Glycolic Acid
Sodium Hydroxide
Aloe Ferox Leaf Juice Extract
Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract
Sodium PCA
Propylene Glycol
Polyquaternium-10
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Glycolic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Aloe Ferox Leaf Juice Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Polyquaternium-10, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract comes from the Chamomile flower.
Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.
Antioxidant components in chamomile make it an effective ingredient to help slow the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, or molecules that may damage your skin.
Essential oils from chamomile have been found to improve wound healing due to its antimicrobial properties.
Ancient Greeks and Egyptians used Chamomile to treat skin redness and dryness. Chamomile has also been used to help treat stomach issues.
Glycolic Acid is arguably the most famous alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with tons of research backing its benefits.
It is found naturally in sugar cane but the form used in skincare is usually synthetic for purity and stability.
Glycolic acid removes the top layer of dead skin cells to allow newer and fresher ones to emerge.
AHAs work by breaking down the structural “glue” that holds old skin cells in place. When that buildup is gone, your skin can renew itself more efficiently.
Research also shows glycolic acid stimulates collagen production, helping to firm and thicken the skin over time. This is one of its biggest advantages over other AHAs.
Overall, glycolic acid helps with:
Fun fact: Glycolic acid boosts skin hydration by helping it produce molecules that increase hyaluronic acid naturally.
To work best, glycolic acid products should have a pH between 3-4 (that’s where exfoliation is most effective but still gentle on skin).
The pH and concentration of a product are key to its effectiveness:
It is normal to feel a slight stinging sensation when using glycolic acid. This usually fades as your skin adjusts.
Because glycolic acid has the smallest molecular size in the AHA family, it can penetrate deeper, which enhances its effectiveness but also makes it more likely to irritate sensitive skin.
If your skin is very sensitive or prone to rosacea, glycolic acid may be too strong; in that case, try milder options like lactic acid or a PHA instead.
Recent studies suggest glycolic acid might even help protect against UV damage. But don’t skip sunscreen! Freshly exfoliated skin is more sensitive to the sun.
Glycolic acid is a skincare superstar. It smooths, brightens, hydrates, and firms the skin. Unless you’re highly sensitive, it’s well worth adding to your routine.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Hydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!