Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Water Essence Versus iUNIK Black Snail Restore Serum

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Water Essence Versus iUNIK Black Snail Restore Serum This hydrating essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Centella

Isntree Hyaluronic Acid Water Essence Versus iUNIK Black Snail Restore Serum

This hydrating essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Sodium Hyaluronate to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Centella Asiatica Leaf Water and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Methylpropanediol

Polyglycerin-3

Glycerin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

1,2-Hexanediol

Niacinamide

Cyclohexasiloxane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Betaine

Xanthan Gum

Trehalose

Panthenol

Butylene Glycol

Sodium PCA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Adenosine

Carbomer

Disodium EDTA

Tromethamine

Polyquaternium-51

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Beta-Glucan

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Pteris Multifida Extract

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Pentylene Glycol

Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate

Tocopherol

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

Water, Methylpropanediol, Polyglycerin-3, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Betaine, Xanthan Gum, Trehalose, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Sodium PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Beta-Glucan, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pteris Multifida Extract, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil

Centella Asiatica Leaf Water

Glycereth-26

Snail Extract

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Oryza Sativa Extract

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract

Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Cynanchum Atratum Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Centella Asiatica Extract

Arginine

Sodium Polyacrylate

Caprylyl Glycol

Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycereth-26, Snail Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Cynanchum Atratum Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Arginine, Carbomer, Adenosine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.

The way it works is fairly well mapped out:

Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.

The clinical backing is pretty solid too.

A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.

A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.

On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.

This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.

Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 031,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
  4. 04It is a:
  5. 05Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  6. 06Emollient, helping to soften skin
  7. 07Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  8. 08Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
  9. 09Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
  10. 10It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
  11. 11Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
  12. 12A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
  13. 13Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
  14. 14One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
  15. 15Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
  16. 16Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  17. 17Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  18. 18Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  19. 19Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  20. 20Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

iUnik Black Snail Restore Serum

iUnik Black Snail Restore Serum iUnik Black Snail Restore Serum ingredients explained: Snail Secretion Filtrate, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Glycer…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

iUNIK Black Snail Restore Serum

iUNIK Black Snail Restore Serum Ingredients in iUNIK Black Snail Restore Serum explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 30 ingredients including Water, Centella Asiatica Leaf…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side