Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Face Republic Calming Blemish Madecassoside Serum

Isntree Ultra-Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum Versus Face Republic Calming Blemish Madecassoside Serum

This hydrating serum is formulated around Panthenol and Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid to hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier.

This calming serum is formulated around Panthenol and Madecassoside to calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

No concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Sea Water

Water

Methylpropanediol

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

1,2-Hexanediol

Betaine

Pentylene Glycol

Carbomer

Caprylyl Glycol

Allantoin

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Xanthan Gum

Panthenol

Malachite Extract

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Disodium EDTA

Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer

Glyceryl Glucoside

Sodium Hyaluronate

Potassium Hyaluronate

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate

Sodium Sulfated Hyaluronate

Madecassoside

Beta-Glucan

Sodium Stearoyl Hyaluronate

Sodium Oleoyl Hyaluronate

Sea Water, Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Betaine, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Malachite Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Glucoside, Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Calcium Hyaluronate, Sodium Sulfated Hyaluronate, Madecassoside, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Stearoyl Hyaluronate, Sodium Oleoyl Hyaluronate

Dipropylene Glycol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Glyceryl Stearate

Arginine

Centella Asiatica Extract

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract

Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract

Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract

Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Distearate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Panthenol, Arginine, Madecassoside, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Betaine, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Agave Tequilana Leaf Extract, Forsythia Suspensa Fruit Extract, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract, Myrothamnus Flabellifolia Leaf/Stem Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.

It is a:

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin

Emollient, helping to soften skin

Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas

Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.

There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:

Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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