IT Cosmetics Confidence in a Cream Hydrating Moisturizer Versus Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24

IT Cosmetics Confidence in a Cream Hydrating Moisturizer Versus Olay Vitamin C + Peptide 24

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This brightening moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Butylene Glycol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Ethylhexyl Isononanoate

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-100 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Stearyl Behenate

Dimethicone

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Polyethylene

PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone

Phenyl Methicone

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Polyquaternium-51

Niacinamide

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Carbomer

PEG-150 Distearate

Ceramide AP

Glycosphingolipids

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Meadowfoam Estolide

Sorbitan Isostearate

Squalane

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Polysorbate 20

Steareth-20

N-Hydroxysuccinimide

Chrysin

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Polysorbate 60

Aleuritic Acid

Yeast Extract

Glycoproteins

Betaine

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Ceramide NP

Allantoin

Colloidal Oatmeal

Retinyl Retinoate

Polylactic Acid

Canola Oil

Cholesteryl Nonanoate

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Eruca Sativa Leaf Extract

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Ceteareth-20

Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea

Glycine Soja Sterols

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Santalum Album Oil

Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Cetearyl Glucoside

Glucose

Stearyl Stearate

Tromethamine

Citric Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Chlorhexidine Digluconate

Potassium Sorbate

Dipropylene Glycol

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil

Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Ethylhexylglycerin

Caramel

Disodium EDTA

Phenoxyethanol

Caprylyl Glycol

Limonene

Linalool

Water, Butylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Stearyl Behenate, Dimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Polyethylene, PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone, Phenyl Methicone, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polyquaternium-51, Niacinamide, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carbomer, PEG-150 Distearate, Ceramide AP, Glycosphingolipids, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Meadowfoam Estolide, Sorbitan Isostearate, Squalane, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Polysorbate 20, Steareth-20, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Polysorbate 60, Aleuritic Acid, Yeast Extract, Glycoproteins, Betaine, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Ceramide NP, Allantoin, Colloidal Oatmeal, Retinyl Retinoate, Polylactic Acid, Canola Oil, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Eruca Sativa Leaf Extract, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Ceteareth-20, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Glycine Soja Sterols, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Santalum Album Oil, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glucose, Stearyl Stearate, Tromethamine, Citric Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Dipropylene Glycol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caramel, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Limonene, Linalool

Isohexadecane

Lactic Acid

Isopropyl Isostearate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Stearyl Alcohol

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Panthenol

Sodium Lactate

Trehalose

Behenyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Dimethiconol

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Ascorbic Acid

Avena Sativa Peptide

Water, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Lactic Acid, Isopropyl Isostearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Stearyl Alcohol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Panthenol, Sodium Lactate, Trehalose, Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Dimethiconol, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum, Ascorbic Acid, Avena Sativa Peptide

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Cetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.

Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.

Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.

Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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