Skin science article
It's Skin Hyaluronic Acid Moisture Cream Versus PCA Skin ReBalance
It's Skin Hyaluronic Acid Moisture Cream Versus PCA Skin ReBalance This calming moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Portulaca Oleracea Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin. This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and B
It's Skin Hyaluronic Acid Moisture Cream Versus PCA Skin ReBalance
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Hyaluronate and Portulaca Oleracea Extract to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Bisabolol to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycerin
Glycereth-26
Dimethicone
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract
Portulaca Oleracea Extract
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
PPG-26-Buteth-26
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Triethanolamine
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Glycereth-26, Dimethicone, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Malpighia Glabra Fruit Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Niacinamide
Polyisobutene
Bisabolol
Sodium Hydroxide
Hexylene Glycol
PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Water, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Glycereth-26, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Niacinamide, Carbomer, Polyisobutene, Caprylyl Glycol, Bisabolol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Tocopheryl Acetate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium Hyaluronate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
We don't have a description for Ethylhexyl Isononanoate yet.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycereth-26 is a synthetic ingredient and polyethylene glycol ether of Glycerin. Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin and helps keep your skin moisturized.
It is a humectant and helps add texture to products. It can make your product thicker.
As a humectant, it helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps your skin stay hydrated.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!