Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Item Beauty Lite Sauce Clean Balancing Gel Moisturizer with Ceramides Versus Bioderma Sébium Hydra

Item Beauty Lite Sauce Clean Balancing Gel Moisturizer with Ceramides Versus Bioderma Sébium Hydra This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repa

Item Beauty Lite Sauce Clean Balancing Gel Moisturizer with Ceramides Versus Bioderma Sébium Hydra

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Centella Asiatica Extract and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Allantoin to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycerin

Betaine

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Centella Asiatica Extract

1,2-Hexanediol

Xylitol

Tocopherol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter

Ceramide NP

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Xanthan Gum

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Carbomer

Silica

Sodium Stearoxy Pg-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate

Disodium EDTA

Tromethamine

Ethylhexylglycerin

Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Centella Asiatica Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Xylitol, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Ceramide NP, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Silica, Sodium Stearoxy Pg-Hydroxyethylcellulose Sulfonate, Disodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin

Paraffinum Liquidum

Ethylhexyl Palmitate

Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone

Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Isohexadecane

Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Polysorbate 80

Allantoin

Fructooligosaccharides

Mannitol

Propylene Glycol

Cetrimonium Bromide

Rhamnose

Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract

Dodecyl Gallate

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Paraffinum Liquidum, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Dipropylene Glycol, Xylitol, Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 80, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Fructooligosaccharides, Mannitol, Propylene Glycol, Cetrimonium Bromide, Ceramide NP, Rhamnose, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Dodecyl Gallate, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xylitol is a humectant and prebiotic. It can help with dry skin.

In studies, xylitol has been shown to improve dry skin. It decreased transepidermal water loss, or when water passes through the skin and evaporates. Xylitol also showed to help improve the biomechanical properties of the skin barrier.

The prebiotic property of xylitol may also help reinforce our skin's natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome prevents infection by bad bacteria and helps with hydration.

As a humectant, Xylitol helps draw moisture from both the air and from deeper skin layers. This helps keep skin hydrated.

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol and commonly used as a sugar substitute. It is naturally occurring in plants such as strawberries and pumpkin.

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