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Skin science article

Jan Marini C-Esta Face Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

Jan Marini C-Esta Face Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Palmitate and Urea to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture. This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl G

Jan Marini C-Esta Face Serum Versus The INKEY List 15% Vitamin C And EGF Serum

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Palmitate and Urea to brighten dull-looking skin and refine skin texture.

This brightening serum is formulated around Ascorbyl Glucoside to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Urea

Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate

Dimethicone

Acetyl Tyrosine

Dimethyl Mea

Parfum

Zinc Sulfate

Sodium Hydroxide

Tocopheryl Acetate

Panthenol

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ergothioneine

Pyridoxine Hcl

Sodium Metabisulfite

Sodium Sulfite

Xanthan Gum

Disodium EDTA

Citric Acid

Farnesol

Linalool

Amyl Cinnamal

Benzyl Salicylate

Cinnamal

Limonene

Eugenol

Hydroxycitronellal

Butylphenyl Methylpropional

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Hexylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Urea, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dimethicone, Acetyl Tyrosine, Dimethyl Mea, Parfum, Zinc Sulfate, Sodium Hydroxide, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ergothioneine, Pyridoxine Hcl, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Sulfite, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Farnesol, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Cinnamal, Limonene, Eugenol, Hydroxycitronellal, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol

Ascorbyl Glucoside

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Benzyl Alcohol

Butylene Glycol

Dehydroacetic Acid

Phytic Acid

Oligopeptide-1

Water, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Dehydroacetic Acid, Phytic Acid, Oligopeptide-1

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.

In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.

Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.

"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.

Sodium metabisulfite is also known as Sodium Pyrosulfite. It is a preservative, antioxidant, and disinfectant.

As a preservative, it helps stabilize cosmetic formulas without affecting their color or scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Glycerin
  3. 03Dimethicone
  4. 04Cetearyl Olivate
  5. 05Sorbitan Olivate
  6. 06Sodium Hyaluronate
  7. 07Serine
  8. 08Glycine
  9. 09Alanine
  10. 10Threonine
  11. 11Arginine
  12. 12Proline
  13. 13Lysine Hcl
  14. 14Glutamic Acid
  15. 15Sodium PCA
  16. 16PCA
  17. 17Sodium Lactate
  18. 18Urea
  19. 19Sodium Chloride
  20. 20Citric Acid
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum

The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum The Inkey List Alpha Arbutin Serum ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Glycerin, Alpha-Arbutin, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, C…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →

Product

The Inkey List Spf 30 Daily Sunscreen

The Inkey List Spf 30 Daily Sunscreen The Inkey List Spf 30 Daily Sunscreen ingredients explained: Water (Aqua/Eau), Zinc Oxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Coconut …

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side