Skin science article
Kate Somerville KateCeuticals Total Repair Cream Versus Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Eye Cream
Kate Somerville KateCeuticals Total Repair Cream Versus Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Eye Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles. This anti-aging eye mois
Kate Somerville KateCeuticals Total Repair Cream Versus Olay Collagen Peptide 24 Eye Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Cholesterol to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Stearic Acid
Ceteareth-20
Glycerin
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
Isopropyl Myristate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
Ceramide Ng
Cholesterol
Adenosine
Squalane
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Copper PCA
Serica
Sodium Hyaluronate
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Allantoin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Triacetin
PEG-10 Phytosterol
Sodium PCA
Tribehenin
Urea
Polyquaternium-51
Butylene Glycol
Trehalose
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Disodium EDTA
Tocopheryl Acetate
Parfum
Hexylene Glycol
Lactic Acid
Aminomethyl Propanol
Xanthan Gum
BHT
Caprylyl Glycol
Chlorphenesin
Geraniol
Hexyl Cinnamal
Limonene
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Ceteareth-20, Glycerin, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Isopropyl Myristate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Ceramide Ng, Cholesterol, Adenosine, Squalane, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Copper PCA, Serica, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Allantoin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Citrus Paradisi Peel Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Triacetin, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Sodium PCA, Tribehenin, Urea, Polyquaternium-51, Butylene Glycol, Trehalose, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Disodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Parfum, Hexylene Glycol, Lactic Acid, Aminomethyl Propanol, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene
Petrolatum
Isopropyl Isostearate
Tapioca Starch
Isohexadecane
Niacinamide
Stearyl Alcohol
Cetyl Alcohol
Panthenol
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Cetearyl Glucoside
Laureth-7
Palmitic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Polyacrylamide
PEG-100 Stearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Petrolatum, Isopropyl Isostearate, Tapioca Starch, Isohexadecane, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Laureth-7, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylamide, PEG-100 Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!