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Skin science article

Kérastase Genesis Fortifying Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1%

Kérastase Genesis Fortifying Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1% This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. What's inside Key In

Kérastase Genesis Fortifying Serum Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1%

This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Alcohol Denat.

Arginine

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Citric Acid

Niacinamide

Calcium Pantothenate

Caffeine

Limonene

Pyridoxine Hcl

Linalool

Polyquaternium-11

Safflower Glucoside

Benzyl Salicylate

Coumarin

Citral

Benzyl Alcohol

Xylitylglucoside

Citronellol

Benzyl Benzoate

Anhydroxylitol

Xylitol

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Resveratrol

Tocopherol

BHT

Sodium Citrate

Parfum

Water, Alcohol Denat., Arginine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Citric Acid, Niacinamide, Calcium Pantothenate, Caffeine, Limonene, Pyridoxine Hcl, Linalool, Polyquaternium-11, Safflower Glucoside, Benzyl Salicylate, Coumarin, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Xylitylglucoside, Citronellol, Benzyl Benzoate, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Resveratrol, Tocopherol, BHT, Sodium Citrate, Parfum

Glycerin

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Copper Tripeptide-1

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Pentapeptide-18

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Allantoin

Glycine

Alanine

Serine

Valine

Isoleucine

Proline

Threonine

Histidine

Phenylalanine

Aspartic Acid

Trehalose

Fructose

Glucose

Maltose

Urea

Sodium PCA

PCA

Sodium Lactate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Sodium Chloride

Sodium Hydroxide

Butylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Acacia Senegal Gum

Xanthan Gum

Carbomer

Polysorbate 20

Dimethyl Isosorbide

Sodium Benzoate

Caprylyl Glycol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Acacia Senegal Gum has skin soothing, thickening, and formulation stabilizing properties. It comes from the Acacia tree that is native to sub-Saharan Africa.
  4. 04Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
  5. 05It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
  6. 06The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
  7. 07Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
  8. 08So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
  9. 09A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
  10. 10While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
  11. 11Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
  12. 12Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  13. 13Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  14. 14Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  15. 15Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  16. 16Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  17. 17Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  18. 18Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
  19. 19Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
  20. 20It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Source · skinsort.com
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Product index

Related product references

Product

Nano Recipe Copper Peptide-1

Nano Recipe Copper Peptide-1 Ingredients in Nano Recipe Copper Peptide-1 explained: benefits, concerns, and detailed analysis of 4 ingredients including Copper Tripeptide-1, Water, and Prop…

Source: skinsort.comView reference →
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Comparison edit

Read side by side