Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

Keune Care Blonde Savior Shampoo Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo

Keune Care Blonde Savior Shampoo Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Cocamidopropyl Betaine PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil Sodium

Keune Care Blonde Savior Shampoo Versus K18 Hair PEPTIDE PREP™ pH Maintenance Shampoo

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Sodium Chloride

Coco-Glucoside

Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer

Decyl Glucoside

PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate

Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride

Glycol Distearate

Creatine

Panthenol

Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl Dimethicone

Sodium Benzoate

Glycerin

Glyceryl Laurate

Propylene Glycol

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

Alcohol Denat.

Parfum

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol

Glycolic Acid

Citric Acid

Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride

Phenoxyethanol

Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment

Potassium Sorbate

Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment

Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment

Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment

Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment

Benzyl Salicylate

Hexyl Cinnamal

Linalool

Water, Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sodium Chloride, Coco-Glucoside, Acrylates/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer, Decyl Glucoside, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, Palmitamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Glycol Distearate, Creatine, Panthenol, Propoxytetramethyl Piperidinyl Dimethicone, Sodium Benzoate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Laurate, Propylene Glycol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Alcohol Denat., Parfum, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Pg-Propyl Silanetriol, Glycolic Acid, Citric Acid, Polyacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Phenoxyethanol, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Potassium Sorbate, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Benzyl Salicylate, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool

Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate

Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate

Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate

Sh-Oligopeptide-78

Sodium Phytate

Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate

Caprylyl Glycol

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

Benzoic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Limonene

Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate, Sh-Oligopeptide-78, Panthenol, Glycerin, Sodium Phytate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Benzoic Acid, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Parfum, Limonene

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.

This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.

Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.

While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This ingredient is derived from guar gum. It is a skin conditioning agent that creates a thin, breathable film to reduce water loss during cleansing.

This leaves the skin feeling soft rather than stripped and also contributes to a creamier lather.

Due to the large molecule size, this ingredient is unlikely to penetrate skin.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Charcoal powder comes from grounded charcoal. Charcoal can originate from peat, bamboo, coal, wood, coconut shell, or petroleum.
  4. 04This ingredient has absorbent properties, making it great at absorbing oil.
  5. 05Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  6. 06Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  7. 07Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  8. 08Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  9. 09This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  10. 10Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  11. 11Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  12. 12Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
  13. 13There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
  14. 14D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
  15. 15Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
  16. 16Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
  17. 17This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
  18. 18Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
  19. 19This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
  20. 20Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, …
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side