Skin science article
Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide Versus Beauty Pie Japanfusion Genius Lift Elixar
Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide Versus Beauty Pie Japanfusion Genius Lift Elixar This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture. What's inside
Kiehl's Micro-Dose Anti-Aging Retinol Serum with Ceramides and Peptide Versus Beauty Pie Japanfusion Genius Lift Elixar
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Ceramide NP to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Pentylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Cetyl Alcohol
Isohexadecane
Isononyl Isononanoate
Diisopropyl Sebacate
2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Adenosine
Ceramide NP
Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine
Lauroyl Lysine
Octyldodecanol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hydroxide
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Retinol
Tocopherol
Dicaprylyl Ether
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Behenyl Alcohol
Caprylyl Glycol
Carbomer
Cetearyl Alcohol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Glycine Soja Oil
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Lecithin
Phenethyl Alcohol
Poloxamer 188
Polycaprolactone
Sorbitan Laurate
Steareth-100
CI 40800
Chlorphenesin
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Cetyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Isononyl Isononanoate, Diisopropyl Sebacate, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Adenosine, Ceramide NP, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Lauroyl Lysine, Octyldodecanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Retinol, Tocopherol, Dicaprylyl Ether, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glycine Soja Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Poloxamer 188, Polycaprolactone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-100, CI 40800, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol
Tripropylene Glycol
Diglycerin
Methyl Gluceth-10
Polysorbate 20
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Xanthan Gum
Citrus Jabara Peel Extract
Sodium Citrate
Cladosiphon Novae-Caledoniae Polysaccharide
Hydrolyzed Vitis Labrusca Skin Extract
Parfum
Citric Acid
Pentasodium Pentetate
Schizosaccharomyces Pombe Extract
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Tripropylene Glycol, Diglycerin, Methyl Gluceth-10, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 20, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Pentylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Citrus Jabara Peel Extract, Sodium Citrate, Cladosiphon Novae-Caledoniae Polysaccharide, Hydrolyzed Vitis Labrusca Skin Extract, Parfum, Citric Acid, Pentasodium Pentetate, Schizosaccharomyces Pombe Extract
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!