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Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) This barrier-repair oil is formulated around Squalane and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is fo

By Peptide Skincare & Beauty Editorial TeamPublished

Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)

This barrier-repair oil is formulated around Squalane and Rosa Canina Fruit Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Squalane

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Oenothera Biennis Oil

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Coriandrum Sativum Seed Oil

Tocopherol

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Linalool

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Citronellol

Geraniol

Lavandula Hybrida Oil

Cucumis Sativus Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Limonene

Citral

Sclareolide

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Jasminum Officinale Extract

Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Squalane, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Coriandrum Sativum Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Linalool, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Citronellol, Geraniol, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Limonene, Citral, Sclareolide, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Jasminum Officinale Extract, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Water

Glycerin

Butylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters

Sodium Hyaluronate

Xanthan Gum

Cyclopentasiloxane

Cyclohexasiloxane

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

Hydrogenated Lecithin

C14-28 Alkyl Acid

Stearyl Alcohol

Behenyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethicone

Adenosine

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Cetearyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

Stearic Acid

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Polyacrylate

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Centella Asiatica Extract

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceramide NP

Trehalose

Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract

Caprylhydroxamic Acid

1,2-Hexanediol

Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

Cucurbitaceae Extract

Orchid Extract

Honey Extract

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Phytosphingosine

Ceteareth-20

Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate

Parfum

Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.

It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.

The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.

The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.

Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.

One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).

This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.

On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
  4. 04Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
  5. 05Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
  6. 06This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
  7. 07Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
  8. 08In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
  9. 09Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
  10. 10Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
  11. 11While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
  12. 12This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
  13. 13This ingredient is a silicone-based emulsifer that helps the water and oil phases play nicely together.
  14. 14It's pretty effective because one end of the molecule loves oil and the other one loves water.
  15. 15Besides holding formulas together, it also leaves a silky and lightweight feel on skin without the greasiness. A manufacturer also claims it can help with the controlled release of active ingredients.
  16. 16The CIR Expert Panel found this ingredient to not be sensitizing in concentrations up to 15% in human maximazation testing and dimethicone-based compounds were not comedogenic.
  17. 17It has a high molecular weight well above 1,000 g/mol which means it limits meaningful skin penetration.
  18. 18A 2019 study specifically tested this ingredient and found no observable Malassezia growth in its presence.
  19. 19Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
  20. 20What it does:
Source · skinsort.com ⟶
02

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03

Comparison edit

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