Skin science article
Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Omega Rich Botanical Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer
Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Omega Rich Botanical Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Oenothera Biennis Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hyd
Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Omega Rich Botanical Night Cream Versus Paula's Choice Clinical Ceramide-Enriched Firming Moisturizer
This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Oenothera Biennis Oil to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Cetearyl Alcohol
Propanediol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Squalane
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glyceryl Stearate
Cellulose
Cetearyl Glucoside
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Glycine Soja Oil
Coriandrum Sativum Seed Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Zinc Gluconate
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Silica
Adenosine
Caprylyl Glycol
Citric Acid
Xanthan Gum
Tocopherol
Salicylic Acid
Benzoic Acid
CI 77007
Linalool
Geraniol
Citral
Citronellol
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cellulose, Cetearyl Glucoside, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Glycine Soja Oil, Coriandrum Sativum Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Silica, Adenosine, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Salicylic Acid, Benzoic Acid, CI 77007, Linalool, Geraniol, Citral, Citronellol
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Cetyl Alcohol
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
PEG-100 Stearate
PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Ascorbate
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Retinol
Ceramide NP
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Eos
Cholesterol
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Punica Granatum Extract
Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root
Vitis Vinifera
Tocopheryl Acetate
Carnosine
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Citrate
Ceteareth-25
Polysorbate 20
Ethylhexyl Stearate
Sodium Hydroxide
Trideceth-6
Propyl Gallate
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Behenic Acid
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Chlorphenesin
Water, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Cetyl Alcohol, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Glycerin, PEG-12 Glyceryl Dimyristate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Ascorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Cholesterol, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Squalane, Punica Granatum Extract, Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root, Vitis Vinifera, Tocopheryl Acetate, Carnosine, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Ceteareth-25, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Sodium Hydroxide, Trideceth-6, Propyl Gallate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Behenic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!