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Skin science article

Kiehl's Skin Rescuer Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme

Kiehl's Skin Rescuer Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme This calming moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging night m

Kiehl's Skin Rescuer Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Night Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme

This calming moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Centella Asiatica Extract to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Squalane

Propanediol

Undecane

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Tridecane

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

PEG-20 Stearate

Mannose

Lauroyl Lysine

Cetyl Alcohol

Propylene Glycol

Phenoxyethanol

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Triethanolamine

Carbomer

Tocopherol

P-Anisic Acid

Ectoin

Centella Asiatica Extract

Xanthan Gum

Ceteareth-25

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Rosa Gallica Flower Extract

Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine

Ceramide NP

Behenic Acid

Cholesterol

Ceramide Ns

Chamomilla Recutita Extract

Ceramide AP

Ceramide EOP

Ceramide Eos

Caprooyl Phytosphingosine

Caprooyl Sphingosine

Citric Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Propanediol, Undecane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tridecane, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Stearate, Mannose, Lauroyl Lysine, Cetyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Triethanolamine, Carbomer, Tocopherol, P-Anisic Acid, Ectoin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Xanthan Gum, Ceteareth-25, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Rosa Gallica Flower Extract, Hydroxypalmitoyl Sphinganine, Ceramide NP, Behenic Acid, Cholesterol, Ceramide Ns, Chamomilla Recutita Extract, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Petrolatum

Hexyldecyl Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Glycereth-26

Cetearyl Alcohol

Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract

Hordeum Vulgare Extract

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Persea Gratissima Oil

Whey Protein

Caffeine

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Algae Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Artemia Extract

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Ergothioneine

Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2

Trehalose

Sorbitol

Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl

Isohexadecane

Acetyl Glucosamine

Myristyl Myristate

Cetearyl Glucoside

Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate

Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate

Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate

Caprylyl Glycol

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Tocopheryl Acetate

Linoleic Acid

Polysorbate 80

Faex Extract

Propylene Glycol Dicaprate

Zinc PCA

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Hexylene Glycol

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Myristyl Alcohol

Tromethamine

Stearic Acid

Potassium Sulfate

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Maltodextrin

Aluminum Hydroxide

Parfum

Potassium Sorbate

Dextran

Disodium EDTA

BHT

CI 42090

CI 17200

CI 77891

Water, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Petrolatum, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycereth-26, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Propanediol, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Mimosa Tenuiflora Bark Extract, Hordeum Vulgare Extract, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Oil, Whey Protein, Caffeine, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Algae Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Ergothioneine, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Trehalose, Sorbitol, Glycerin, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Cholesterol, Isohexadecane, Acetyl Glucosamine, Myristyl Myristate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linoleic Acid, Polysorbate 80, Faex Extract, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Zinc PCA, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Hexylene Glycol, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Myristyl Alcohol, Tromethamine, Stearic Acid, Potassium Sulfate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Citric Acid, Maltodextrin, Aluminum Hydroxide, Parfum, Potassium Sorbate, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, CI 42090, CI 17200, CI 77891

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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