Skin science article
Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus Paula's Choice Peptide Booster
Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus Paula's Choice Peptide Booster This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging. This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Tripeptide
Kiehl's Super Multi-Corrective Cream Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Versus Paula's Choice Peptide Booster
This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%
Homosalate 5%
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%
Octocrylene 7%
Water
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Silica
PEG-100 Stearate
Propylene Glycol
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Phenoxyethanol
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Stearic Acid
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cetyl Alcohol
Palmitic Acid
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Parfum
Disodium EDTA
Tocopherol
Sodium Hyaluronate
Adenosine
Linalool
Sodium Hydroxide
Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract
Citronellol
Geraniol
Citral
Benzyl Alcohol
Citric Acid
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Silica, PEG-100 Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Phenoxyethanol, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Stearic Acid, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Cetyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Parfum, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine, Linalool, Sodium Hydroxide, Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Benzyl Alcohol, Citric Acid
PEG-8 Dimethicone
Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate
Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10
Glycoproteins
Phospholipids
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Arginine
Valine
Glycine
Alanine
Glutamic Acid
Serine
Threonine
Yeast Extract
Isoleucine
Proline
Histidine
Phenylalanine
PCA
Phytic Acid
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Sodium PCA
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract
Dextran
Hydrolyzed Silk
Lecithin
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
C12-16 Pareth-9
Trideceth-12
Sodium Lactate
Carbomer
Aspartic Acid
Polysorbate 20
Butylene Glycol
PEG-8
C11-15 Pareth-7
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Ectoin
Citrate Buffer
Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone
Ethylhexylglycerin
Water, Glycerin, PEG-8 Dimethicone, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Myristoyl Hexapeptide-16, Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Azelaoyl Bis-Dipeptide-10, Glycoproteins, Phospholipids, Adenosine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Arginine, Valine, Glycine, Alanine, Glutamic Acid, Serine, Threonine, Yeast Extract, Isoleucine, Proline, Histidine, Phenylalanine, PCA, Phytic Acid, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium PCA, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Ahnfeltiopsis Concinna Extract, Dextran, Hydrolyzed Silk, Lecithin, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, C12-16 Pareth-9, Trideceth-12, Sodium Lactate, Carbomer, Aspartic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-8, C11-15 Pareth-7, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ectoin, Citrate Buffer, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!