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Skin science article

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Hydrating Dewy Gel Cream

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Hydrating Dewy Gel Cream This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and Sarcosine to balance excess oil. This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated arou

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Hydrating Dewy Gel Cream

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and Sarcosine to balance excess oil.

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Dimethicone

Isononyl Isononanoate

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Carbomer

Butylene Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Caprylyl Glycol

Dimethiconol

Sodium Hydroxide

Xanthan Gum

Pentylene Glycol

Tetrasodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Menthoxypropanediol

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sarcosine

Salicylic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Menthoxypropanediol, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sarcosine, Salicylic Acid

Squalane

Phenyl Trimethicone

Betaine

Niacinamide

Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone

Sodium Hyaluronate

Ceramide NP

Colloidal Oatmeal

Tocopherol

Sorbitan Isostearate

Decyl Glucoside

Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Ethylhexylglycerin

Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Glucoside

Polysilicone-11

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Hexylene Glycol

Polysorbate 60

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Betaine, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Propanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ceramide NP, Colloidal Oatmeal, Tocopherol, Sorbitan Isostearate, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Crosspolymer, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Glucoside, Dimethiconol, Polysilicone-11, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hexylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Polysorbate 60

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Dimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.

This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:

Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.

On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.

Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
  3. 03Polymethyl Methacrylate
  4. 04Glycerin
  5. 05Squalane
  6. 06Glyceryl Stearate
  7. 07Butylene Glycol
  8. 08Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer
  9. 09Polysorbate 20
  10. 10Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
  11. 11Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
  12. 12Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
  13. 13Retinol
  14. 14Caffeine
  15. 15Ceramide Ng
  16. 16Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
  17. 17Tocopherol
  18. 18Allantoin
  19. 19Sodium Hyaluronate
  20. 20Atelocollagen
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side