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Skin science article

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Oil-Free Mattifying Gel Moisturizer

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Oil-Free Mattifying Gel Moisturizer This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and Sarcosine to balance excess oil. This oil-control moisturize

Kiehl's Ultra Facial Oil-Free Gel Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Rescue Oil-Free Mattifying Gel Moisturizer

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract and Sarcosine to balance excess oil.

This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract and Niacinamide to balance excess oil and calm redness.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Propanediol

Dimethicone

Isononyl Isononanoate

Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid

Phenoxyethanol

Carbomer

Butylene Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Caprylyl Glycol

Dimethiconol

Sodium Hydroxide

Xanthan Gum

Pentylene Glycol

Tetrasodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Menthoxypropanediol

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Sarcosine

Salicylic Acid

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Dimethiconol, Sodium Hydroxide, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Menthoxypropanediol, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sarcosine, Salicylic Acid

Cyclopentasiloxane

Methyl Gluceth-10

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Dipropylene Glycol

Glycereth-26

Phytosterols

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Ceramide NP

Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract

Niacinamide

Salicornia Herbacea Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract

Soy Isoflavones

Squalane

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Polysorbate 20

Lecithin

Caprylyl Methicone

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Azelaic Acid

Pyridoxine Hcl

Zinc PCA

Polysilicone-11

Polysorbate 80

Potassium Hydroxide

Disodium EDTA

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Methyl Gluceth-10, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycereth-26, Phytosterols, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Dioscorea Villosa Root Extract, Niacinamide, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Soy Isoflavones, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polysorbate 20, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Lecithin, Caprylyl Methicone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Azelaic Acid, Pyridoxine Hcl, Zinc PCA, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 80, Potassium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.

Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.

It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.

Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.

A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.

Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.

It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.

One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.

Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.

Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.

The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.

Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
  4. 04Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
  5. 05Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
  6. 06Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
  7. 07Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
  8. 08Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
  9. 09Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
  10. 10This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
  11. 11Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
  12. 12Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
  13. 13This ingredient is also known as Avocado oil. It's the cold-pressed oil from the flesh of the avocado fruit packed with fatty acids (mostly oleic acid).
  14. 14The rich fatty acid profile allows it to function as a skin conditioning agent and emollient; it helps soften and smooth skin while reducing water loss.
  15. 15Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.
  16. 16The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.
  17. 17The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.
  18. 18It's a great ingredient for dry or compromised skin. Just know it may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.
  19. 19Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
  20. 20It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

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Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

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