Skin science article
KIKO Milano Pure Clean Foam Versus PCA Skin BPO 5% Cleanser
KIKO Milano Pure Clean Foam Versus PCA Skin BPO 5% Cleanser This benzoyl peroxide foaming cleanser is formulated around Benzoyl Peroxide to clear breakouts and help reduce acne-causing bacteria. What's inside Key Ingredients No key ingredients Benefits Concern
KIKO Milano Pure Clean Foam Versus PCA Skin BPO 5% Cleanser
This benzoyl peroxide foaming cleanser is formulated around Benzoyl Peroxide to clear breakouts and help reduce acne-causing bacteria.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Decyl Glucoside
Glycerin
Butylene Glycol
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
Lauric Acid
Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate
Polysorbate 20
Aminomethyl Propanol
Parfum
Phenoxyethanol
Sodium Chloride
Caprylyl Glycol
Propylene Glycol
Polyquaternium-10
Hexylene Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Capric Acid
Myristic Acid
Lactic Acid
Sodium Benzoate
Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract
Potassium Sorbate
Maltodextrin
Water, Decyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lauric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 20, Aminomethyl Propanol, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Polyquaternium-10, Hexylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Capric Acid, Myristic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Benzoate, Nelumbo Nucifera Flower Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Maltodextrin
Benzoyl Peroxide 5%
Gluconolactone
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Polyacrylate-13
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Polyisobutene
Allantoin
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Panthenol
Sodium PCA
Phytic Acid
Algae Extract
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Arnica Montana Flower Extract
Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Benzoyl Peroxide 5%, Water, Gluconolactone, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Polyacrylate-13, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Polyisobutene, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Allantoin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Algae Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aminomethyl Propanol is used to adjust the pH of products. It is also used as a base to create other organic compounds. Having a balanced pH is important for protecting your skin.
Aminomethyl propanol is safe to use in cosmetics up to 1%. It is soluble in water.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Hexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!