Skin science article
Kolai Face Clay Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask
Kolai Face Clay Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores. This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off pore-care boost. What's inside Key Ing
Kolai Face Clay Mask Versus Beauty of Joseon Red Bean Refreshing Pore Mask
This wash off mask is formulated around Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and unclog pores.
This wash off mask is made with Kaolin for a rinse-off pore-care boost.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Kaolin
Glycerin
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Protein
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Hydroxyethyl Urea
Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract
Niacinamide
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Polyacrylate-13
Isohexadecane
Triethyl Citrate
Caprylyl Glycol
Allantoin
Polyisobutene
Benzoic Acid
Charcoal Powder
Tocopheryl Acetate
Polysorbate 60
Lactic Acid
Xanthan Gum
Citric Acid
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polysorbate 20
Sodium Phytate
Malic Acid
Gluconic Acid
Ascorbic Acid
Glycolic Acid
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Salicylic Acid
Tartaric Acid
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Kaolin, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Protein, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Bambusa Arundinacea Stem Extract, Niacinamide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Isohexadecane, Triethyl Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Allantoin, Polyisobutene, Benzoic Acid, Charcoal Powder, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 60, Lactic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Phytate, Malic Acid, Gluconic Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Glycolic Acid, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Salicylic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
1,2-Hexanediol
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder
Hectorite
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
Ultramarines
Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract
Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract
CI 77491
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Sorbitan Oleate
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Water, Glycerin, Kaolin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Powder, Hectorite, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Ultramarines, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Polyisobutene, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Pyrus Malus Leaf Extract, CI 77491, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Sorbitan Oleate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Kaolin is a clay. It is used for oil control and to help minimize pores. Like other clays, kaolin has the ability to absorb excess sebum or oil. This can help clean out pores and mattify the skin.
Some types of kaolin may have exfoliating properties. When water is added to kaolin, it becomes a paste with small abrasive particles.
Most kaolin is a white color, but may be pink/orange/red depending on where it comes from.
The name 'kaolin' comes from a Chinese village named 'Gaoling'. Kaolin clay comes from rocks rich in kaolinite. Kaolinite, the mineral, has a silicate layered structure. Kaolinite is formed from chemical weathering of aluminum siilicate minerals.
Besides skincare, kaolin is commonly used to make glossy paper, in ceramics, toothpaste, and as medicine to soothe stomach issues.
Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer made from isobutene.
It is a film-forming agent and helps bind ingredients together.
Polyisobutene is not absorbed by the skin.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!