Kopari Peptide Glow Hydrating Moisturizer with Tripeptides and Hyaluronic Acid Versus Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 Moisturizer

Kopari Peptide Glow Hydrating Moisturizer with Tripeptides and Hyaluronic Acid Versus Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF50 Moisturizer

This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Sodium Hyaluronate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

This chemical sunscreen covers most of the UV range, lighter on the deep UVA that drives aging.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Propanediol

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Glycerin

Cocos Nucifera Water

Cetearyl Alcohol

Cetearyl Glucoside

Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Squalane

Rose Extract

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Bisabolol

Cymbopogon Martini Herb Extract

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Tocopheryl Acetate

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Lecithin

Polysorbate 60

Sorbitan Isostearate

Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin

Citronellol

Geraniol

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propanediol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Hexanoyl Dipeptide-3 Norleucine Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Squalane, Rose Extract, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Bisabolol, Cymbopogon Martini Herb Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Citronellol, Geraniol

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Homosalate 5%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3%

Octocrylene 7%

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes

Butylene Glycol

Dimethicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Polysorbate 80

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil

Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil

Cymbopogon Martini Oil

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil

Citrus Limon Peel Extract

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Tocopherol

Caprylyl Glycol

Carnosine

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Urea

Pentylene Glycol

Glucosamine Hcl

Ethylhexylglycerin

1,2-Hexanediol

Gluconolactone

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate

Decyl Glucoside

Aminomethyl Propanol

Polysilicone-11

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Phenethyl Alcohol

Sodium Benzoate

Linalool

Eugenol

Limonene

Benzyl Benzoate

Citral

CI 77891

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Homosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 3%, Octocrylene 7%, Water, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysorbate 80, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Aniba Rosodora Wood Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Leaf Oil, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus Oil, Cymbopogon Martini Oil, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Tocopherol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Carnosine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Lecithin, Urea, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Bisabolol, Glucosamine Hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Gluconolactone, Polysorbate 60, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Decyl Glucoside, Aminomethyl Propanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Benzoate, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl Benzoate, Citral, CI 77891

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.

It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.

A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.

In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.

You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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