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Skin science article

Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief Versus rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid

Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief Versus rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This barrier-repair serum is formulated around

Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief Versus rhode Peptide Glazing Fluid

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.

This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Propanediol

Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil

Dipropylene Glycol

Niacinamide

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil

Cetearyl Olivate

Polysorbate 60

Glyceryl Oleate

Octyldodecanol

Rosa Canina Fruit Oil

Sorbitan Oleate

Sorbitan Olivate

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Glycerin

Tocopheryl Acetate

Butylene Glycol

Caprylyl Glycol

Hydroxyacetophenone

Pentylene Glycol

Squalane

Urea

Xanthan Gum

Sorbitan Isostearate

1,2-Hexanediol

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Disodium EDTA

Avena Sativa Kernel Flour

Magnesium Chloride

Sodium Hyaluronate

Glycine Soja Sterols

Lactic Acid

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Glycosyl Trehalose

Acetyl Glutamine

Oleic Acid

Sodium PCA

Serine

Ceramide NP

Glycine

Water, Propanediol, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Urea, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Disodium EDTA, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Magnesium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lactic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycosyl Trehalose, Acetyl Glutamine, Oleic Acid, Sodium PCA, Serine, Ceramide NP, Glycine

Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil

Tetradecane

Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer

Diheptyl Succinate

Benzyl Alcohol

Sucrose Palmitate

Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Sodium Hydroxide

Disodium Phosphate

Sodium Phosphate

Dilauryl Thiodipropionate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Niacinamide, Tetradecane, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Diheptyl Succinate, Benzyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Oleate, Sucrose Palmitate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dilauryl Thiodipropionate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Reviews

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Oleate is the monoester of glycerin and oleic acid. It is a skin-conditioning emollient that also helps form emulsions.

What makes glyceryl oleate special is its "re-fatting" effect.

When you wash your hair and skin with a surfactant-based cleanser, the surfactants grab onto everything. This includes your skin's natural lipids, or the fats that live in your skin barrier and sebum. Once you rinse these surfactants away, it leaves your skin feeling tight, dry, and clean (in a not-good way).

Re-fatting is essentially putting some of these lipids back. Glyceryl oleate deposits a thin layer of emollient lipids back on the skin or hair surface reduce some of the barrier damage.

Also, glyceryl oleate isn't a foreign molecule to your skin. It's chemically identical to something your skin already produces and manages naturally. This is why it tends to be well-tolerated with low risk of irritation.

Typical use levels range from 0.5-5%.

Glyceryl Oleate has a function of "perfuming" in the CosIng database. This just means that the ingredient has some scent character that can contribute to the product's overall smell.

The scent of this ingredient is described as "waxy".

As an ester of oleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because oleic acid falls into the carbon-chain length that Malassezia can use as a substrate.

Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.

As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.

Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.

This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.

You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.

Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.

An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.

So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.

Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Butylene Glycol
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
  5. 05Niacinamide
  6. 06Tetradecane
  7. 07Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
  8. 08Diheptyl Succinate
  9. 09Benzyl Alcohol
  10. 10Glyceryl Oleate
  11. 11Sucrose Palmitate
  12. 12Hydroxyacetophenone
  13. 13Carbomer
  14. 14Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
  15. 15Caprylyl Glycol
  16. 16Sodium Hydroxide
  17. 17Disodium Phosphate
  18. 18Sodium Phosphate
  19. 19Sodium Hyaluronate
  20. 20Dilauryl Thiodipropionate
Source · skinsort.com
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side