Skin science article
Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer
Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits C
Krave Beauty Great Barrier Relief Versus The INKEY List Peptide Moisturizer
This barrier-repair serum is formulated around Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil and Niacinamide to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
Dipropylene Glycol
Niacinamide
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Cetearyl Olivate
Polysorbate 60
Glyceryl Oleate
Octyldodecanol
Rosa Canina Fruit Oil
Sorbitan Oleate
Sorbitan Olivate
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Glycerin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Butylene Glycol
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydroxyacetophenone
Pentylene Glycol
Squalane
Urea
Xanthan Gum
Sorbitan Isostearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
Disodium EDTA
Avena Sativa Kernel Flour
Magnesium Chloride
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glycine Soja Sterols
Lactic Acid
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glycosyl Trehalose
Acetyl Glutamine
Oleic Acid
Sodium PCA
Serine
Ceramide NP
Glycine
Water, Propanediol, Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Polysorbate 60, Glyceryl Oleate, Octyldodecanol, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Pentylene Glycol, Squalane, Urea, Xanthan Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Disodium EDTA, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Magnesium Chloride, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lactic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycosyl Trehalose, Acetyl Glutamine, Oleic Acid, Sodium PCA, Serine, Ceramide NP, Glycine
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Betaine
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl Alcohol
Carbomer
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Sodium Hydroxide
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Gluconate
Dehydroacetic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Phenethyl Alcohol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-37
Maltodextrin
Pentapeptide-48
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzyl Alcohol, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sodium Hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Dehydroacetic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Phenethyl Alcohol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-37, Maltodextrin, Pentapeptide-48
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!