Skin science article
L'Occitane Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream Versus L'Occitane Almond Milk Concentrate
L'Occitane Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream Versus L'Occitane Almond Milk Concentrate What's inside Key Ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Dicaprylyl Carbonate Glycerin Tapioca Starch Pentylene Glycol Cete
L'Occitane Shea Butter Ultra Rich Body Cream Versus L'Occitane Almond Milk Concentrate
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin
Tapioca Starch
Pentylene Glycol
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Ceteareth-33
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium PCA
Glyceryl Caprylate
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitan Isostearate
Beta-Glucan
Caprylyl Glycol
Parfum
Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Tapioca Starch, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ceteareth-33, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium PCA, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Beta-Glucan, Caprylyl Glycol, Parfum
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methylsilanol Mannuronate
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Protein
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Juglans Regia Seed Extract
Methylpropanediol
Cetearyl Glucoside
Sodium Polyacrylate
Carbomer
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Mannitol
Chlorphenesin
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Citrate
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Sodium Levulinate
Benzoic Acid
P-Anisic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
1,2-Hexanediol
Sodium Metabisulfite
Disodium EDTA
Sorbic Acid
Citric Acid
Limonene
Linalool
Coumarin
Water, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Tapioca Starch, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Protein, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Juglans Regia Seed Extract, Methylpropanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sodium Polyacrylate, Carbomer, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Mannitol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Citrate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Sodium Levulinate, Glyceryl Caprylate, Benzoic Acid, P-Anisic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Disodium EDTA, Sorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Caprylate comes from glycerin and caprylic acid. It is an emollient, co-emulsifier, and preservative booster.
Its short C8 fatty acid chain makes it behave differently from its longer-chain emollient cousins like Glyceryl Stearate. It feels more lightweight, fast-absorbing, and silky instead of rich and waxy.
As a co-emulsifier, its "head" and "tail" sit at the oil-water interface. But overall, the short C8 tail and not being water soluble means it doesn't really have the muscle to emulsify a formula on its own. That's why you'll often see it paired with a primary emulsifier like Cetearyl Glucoside.
Interestingly, Glyceryl Caprylate acts as a preservative booster. This is because its fatty-acid backbone disrupts microbial lipid membranes. It shows excellent activity against bacteria and yeast but is weaker against mold.
Typical concentrations range from 0.5-1% and this ingredient is generally non-irritating.
Because this ingredient has a C8 fatty acid chain, it is outside the range that the Malassezia yeast metabolizes (making it fungal acne safe).
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Tapioca starch is a thickening agent and is made from the cassava root, also known as yucca.
According to a manufacturer, it is an excellent talc replacement.
It is gluten-free.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!