Skin science article
L'Oreal Elvital Full Resist Power Hair Mask Versus L'Oréal Professionnel Absolut Repair Protein Treatment Hair Mask
L'Oreal Elvital Full Resist Power Hair Mask Versus L'Oréal Professionnel Absolut Repair Protein Treatment Hair Mask What's inside Key Ingredients No key ingredients Benefits Concerns Ingredients Side-by-side Water Cetearyl Alcohol Glycerin Isopropyl Myristate
L'Oreal Elvital Full Resist Power Hair Mask Versus L'Oréal Professionnel Absolut Repair Protein Treatment Hair Mask
What's inside
Key Ingredients
No key ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Glycerin
Isopropyl Myristate
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Glycine Soja Oil
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Sodium Hydroxide
Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Arginine
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Salicylic Acid
Limonene
Benzyl Alcohol
Panthenol
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Glycine Soja Oil, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Arginine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Salicylic Acid, Limonene, Benzyl Alcohol, Panthenol
Behentrimonium Chloride
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera
Amodimethicone
Cetyl Esters
Isopropyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Trideceth-6
Linalool
Lactic Acid
Hexyl Cinnamal
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
Cetrimonium Chloride
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
CI 19140
CI 15985
Parfum
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Amodimethicone, Cetyl Esters, Isopropyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Trideceth-6, Linalool, Lactic Acid, Hexyl Cinnamal, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Cetrimonium Chloride, Limonene, Sodium Hydroxide, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, CI 19140, CI 15985, Parfum
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!