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Skin science article

La Mer Crème De La Mer Moisturizer Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream

La Mer Crème De La Mer Moisturizer Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream This moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Copper Gluconate to hydrate skin. This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juic

La Mer Crème De La Mer Moisturizer Versus IMAGE skincare Vital C Hydrating Repair Cream

This moisturizer is formulated around Petrolatum and Copper Gluconate to hydrate skin.

This barrier-repair night moisturizer is formulated around Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Algae Extract

Paraffinum Liquidum

Petrolatum

Glycerin

Isohexadecane

Cera Microcristallina

Lanolin Alcohol

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder

Medicago Sativa Seed Powder

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal

Sodium Gluconate

Copper Gluconate

Calcium Gluconate

Magnesium Gluconate

Zinc Gluconate

Magnesium Sulfate

Paraffin

Tocopheryl Succinate

Niacin

Water

Beta-Carotene

Decyl Oleate

Aluminum Distearate

Octyldodecanol

Citric Acid

Cyanocobalamin

Magnesium Stearate

Panthenol

Zea Mays Oil

Limonene

Geraniol

Linalool

Hydroxycitronellal

Citronellol

Benzyl Salicylate

Benzyl Benzoate

Sodium Benzoate

Alcohol Denat.

Parfum

Algae Extract, Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Cera Microcristallina, Lanolin Alcohol, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Magnesium Sulfate, Paraffin, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Water, Beta-Carotene, Decyl Oleate, Aluminum Distearate, Octyldodecanol, Citric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Magnesium Stearate, Panthenol, Zea Mays Oil, Limonene, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Sodium Benzoate, Alcohol Denat., Parfum

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Dimethicone

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Glyceryl Stearate

Isostearyl Neopentanoate

PEG-100 Stearate

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Cetearyl Alcohol

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil

Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer

Cetyl Alcohol

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Stearyl Alcohol

Phenoxyethanol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Tocopherol

Ceteth-10 Phosphate

Dicetyl Phosphate

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Squalane

Caprylyl Glycol

Glycine Soja Sterols

Linoleic Acid

Phospholipids

Ethylhexylglycerin

Glucosamine Hcl

Hexylene Glycol

Xanthan Gum

Magnesium Aluminum Silicate

PEG-8

Butylene Glycol

Phytic Acid

Sodium Hydroxide

Pisum Sativum Extract

Allantoin

Retinyl Palmitate

Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract

Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil

Yeast Polysaccharides

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Disodium EDTA

Sodium Hyaluronate

Benzoic Acid

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Pyruvic Acid

Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract

Ascorbic Acid

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Isostearyl Neopentanoate, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Limonene, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Cetyl Alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Stearyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Tocopherol, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Dicetyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Panthenol, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucosamine Hcl, Hexylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, PEG-8, Butylene Glycol, Phytic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Pisum Sativum Extract, Allantoin, Retinyl Palmitate, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Yeast Polysaccharides, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Benzoic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Pyruvic Acid, Tremella Fuciformis Sporocarp Extract, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

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Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

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Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
  4. 04The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
  5. 05This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
  6. 06However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
  7. 07Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
  8. 08This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
  9. 09Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is a…
  10. 10Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
  11. 11The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
  12. 12One thing to note: People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
  13. 13The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
  14. 14Also...
  15. 15This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
  16. 16The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
  17. 17Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
  18. 18This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
  19. 19Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
  20. 20Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Source · skinsort.com
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Comparison edit

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