Skin science article
La Mer The Concentrate Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
La Mer The Concentrate Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment This calming serum is formulated around Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract and Linoleic Acid to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and
La Mer The Concentrate Versus Paula's Choice 1% Retinol Treatment
This calming serum is formulated around Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract and Linoleic Acid to calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging treatment is formulated around Retinol and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Cyclopentasiloxane
Algae Extract
Glycerin
Dimethicone
Polysilicone-11
Isononyl Isononanoate
Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Cyclohexasiloxane
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Medicago Sativa Seed Powder
Helianthus Annuus Seedcake
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Sodium Gluconate
Copper Gluconate
Calcium Gluconate
Magnesium Gluconate
Zinc Gluconate
Tocopheryl Succinate
Niacin
Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder
Water
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
Triticum Vulgare Flour Lipids
Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Faex Extract
Cholesterol
Linoleic Acid
Tocopherol
Tetraacetylphytosphingosine
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Ocimum Basilicum Oil
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Lavandula Hybrida Oil
Dipropylene Glycol
Alcohol Denat.
Sodium Citrate
Parfum
Eugenol
Limonene
Linalool
BHT
Phenoxyethanol
Potassium Sorbate
Cyclopentasiloxane, Algae Extract, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Isononyl Isononanoate, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Water, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract, Triticum Vulgare Flour Lipids, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Faex Extract, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Tocopherol, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Ocimum Basilicum Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Dipropylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Sodium Citrate, Parfum, Eugenol, Limonene, Linalool, BHT, Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate
Butylene Glycol
Castor Isostearate Succinate
Glyceryl Stearate
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
PEG-33
Polysorbate 20
Behenyl Alcohol
PEG-100 Stearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Retinol
Ceramide Ng
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Sodium Hyaluronate
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Avena Sativa Kernel Extract
Arctium Lappa Seed Oil
Salix Alba Extract
Glycine Soja Sterols
Lecithin
Allantoin
Tocopheryl Acetate
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Sorbitan Laurate
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Disodium EDTA
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Sodium Hydroxide
Tribehenin
Caprylyl Glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Pentylene Glycol
PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides
PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer
PEG-10 Phytosterol
PEG-8 Dimethicone
PEG-14
Magnesium Aluminum Silicate
Arachidyl Glucoside
Arachidyl Alcohol
Sclerotium Gum
Carbomer
Benzoic Acid
Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Castor Isostearate Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-33, Polysorbate 20, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinol, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Arctium Lappa Seed Oil, Salix Alba Extract, Glycine Soja Sterols, Lecithin, Allantoin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Sorbitan Laurate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Sodium Hydroxide, Tribehenin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-75 Shea Butter Glycerides, PPG-12/Smdi Copolymer, PEG-10 Phytosterol, PEG-8 Dimethicone, PEG-14, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Arachidyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sclerotium Gum, Carbomer, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone created by modifying dimethicone with hydrocarbon side chains. Due to its large size, it does not penetrate skin. It is considered non-occlusive.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used to stabilize and thicken products. It also helps give products a silky feel.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Isononyl Isononanoate is a synthetic skin-conditioner and texture enhancer. It is created from nonanoic acid, a fatty acid found in cocoa and lavender oil.
As an emollient, Isononyl Isononanoate helps keep your skin soft and smooth. This is because emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in.
Isononyl Isononanoate helps give products a velvet feel and improves spreadability.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!