Skin science article
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ Versus Medik8 Advanced Pro-Collagen+ Peptide Cream
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ Versus Medik8 Advanced Pro-Collagen+ Peptide Cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This anti-aging moisturizer
La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+ Versus Medik8 Advanced Pro-Collagen+ Peptide Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Panthenol and Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Carnosine and Squalane to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Panthenol
Zea Mays Starch
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Trihydroxystearin
Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice
Zinc Gluconate
Madecassoside
Manganese Gluconate
Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide
Silica
Aluminum Hydroxide
Magnesium Sulfate
Mannose
Capryloyl Glycine
Caprylyl Glycol
Vitreoscilla Ferment
Citric Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Lactobacillus
Acetylated Glycol Stearate
Maltodextrin
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Tocopherol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Titanium Dioxide
Water, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Panthenol, Zea Mays Starch, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Trihydroxystearin, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Polymnia Sonchifolia Root Juice, Zinc Gluconate, Madecassoside, Manganese Gluconate, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Silica, Aluminum Hydroxide, Magnesium Sulfate, Mannose, Capryloyl Glycine, Caprylyl Glycol, Vitreoscilla Ferment, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Lactobacillus, Acetylated Glycol Stearate, Maltodextrin, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Titanium Dioxide
Squalane
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water
Stearic Acid
Phytosteryl Oleate
C12-16 Alcohols
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Carnosine
Rosmarinus Officinalis Water
Cetearyl Alcohol
Ceramide NP
Linoleic Acid
Cetearyl Olivate
Palmitic Acid
Behenyl Alcohol
Tocopheryl Acetate
Collagen Amino Acids
Micrococcus Lysate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oligopeptide-1
Sorbitan Olivate
Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract
Xanthan Gum
Sodium Hyaluronate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Gluconate
Sodium Polyglutamate
Acetyl Glucosamine
Hydroxyacetophenone
Phytosterols
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Lecithin
Cholesterol
Ceteareth-25
Ceramide AP
Phytosphingosine
Carbomer
Cetyl Alcohol
Behenic Acid
Ceramide Ns
Ceramide EOP
Ceramide Eos
Caprooyl Phytosphingosine
Caprooyl Sphingosine
Phenoxyethanol
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Glyceryl Stearate
Glyceryl Oleate
Water, Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Phytosteryl Oleate, C12-16 Alcohols, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Maltodextrin, Carnosine, Rosmarinus Officinalis Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Linoleic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Palmitic Acid, Behenyl Alcohol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Collagen Amino Acids, Micrococcus Lysate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oligopeptide-1, Sorbitan Olivate, Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Polyglutamate, Acetyl Glucosamine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Lecithin, Cholesterol, Ceteareth-25, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Carbomer, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenic Acid, Ceramide Ns, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide Eos, Caprooyl Phytosphingosine, Caprooyl Sphingosine, Phenoxyethanol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Oleate
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Maltodextrin is a plant-derived carbohydrate made by breaking down starch (usually from corn, potato, or rice). In cosmetic formulas, it's a multitasking absorbent, emulsion stabilizer, and skin conditioner.
This ingredient is mostly used to stabilize emulsions and improve the powdery, non-greasy feel of products (like dry shampoos).
Safety-wise, this ingredient is pretty solid; it's even recognized as a food additive. Both animal and clinical studies found no adverse effects at the levels used in cosmetics.
Industry data shows this ingredient is used up to 45.7% in spray products and up to 33% in powder products.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!