Skin science article
La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. Gel Cream Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. Gel Cream Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster This acne moisturizer is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine skin texture. This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Aci
La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.Z. Gel Cream Versus Paula's Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
This acne moisturizer is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to clear breakouts and refine skin texture.
This calming treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid and Salicylic Acid to calm redness and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Azelaic Acid
C15-19 Alkane
Glycerin
Triethyl Citrate
Diglycerin
Salicylic Acid
Panthenol
Silica
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract
Zinc Gluconate
Glyceryl Stearate
PEG-100 Stearate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Phosphate
Disodium Phosphate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Citric Acid
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Pentylene Glycol
Polysorbate 60
Parfum
Water, Azelaic Acid, C15-19 Alkane, Glycerin, Triethyl Citrate, Diglycerin, Salicylic Acid, Panthenol, Silica, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Taraxacum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Zinc Gluconate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Phosphate, Disodium Phosphate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citric Acid, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate 60, Parfum
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Dimethicone
Adenosine
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract
Allantoin
Bisabolol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Xanthan Gum
Sclerotium Gum
Propanediol
Butylene Glycol
Phenoxyethanol
Water, Azelaic Acid, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Salicylic Acid, Adenosine, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Xanthan Gum, Sclerotium Gum, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!