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Skin science article

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Brightening Eye Cream

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Brightening Eye Cream This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Madecassoside to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin. This brighte

La Roche-Posay Pure Vitamin C Eye Cream Versus IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Brightening Eye Cream

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Ascorbic Acid and Madecassoside to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Glycerin

Dimethicone

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Ascorbic Acid

Mannose

Butylene Glycol

Paraffinum Liquidum

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Cetyl Alcohol

PEG-100 Stearate

Glyceryl Stearate

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Potassium Hydroxide

Paraffin

Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer

Microcrystalline Wax

Madecassoside

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethiconol

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Caprylyl Glycol

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Xanthan Gum

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Mannose, Butylene Glycol, Paraffinum Liquidum, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Cetyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Potassium Hydroxide, Paraffin, Sodium Styrene/Ma Copolymer, Microcrystalline Wax, Madecassoside, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Xanthan Gum, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol

Cyclopentasiloxane

Niacinamide

Cetearyl Alcohol

PEG-40 Stearate

Palmitic Acid

Stearic Acid

Polysorbate 60

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Carbomer

Sodium Hyaluronate

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Copper Gluconate

Collagen

Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Copper Tripeptide-1

Biotin

Caffeine

Magnesium Aspartate

Zinc Gluconate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Ceramide NP

Ceramide AP

Phytosphingosine

Cholesterol

Ceramide EOP

Retinol

Tocopheryl Acetate

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Squalane

Spirulina Platensis Extract

Algae Extract

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Colloidal Oatmeal

Propylene Glycol

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Lecithin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Creatine

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Maris Aqua

Panthenol

Polyglutamic Acid

Methionine

Lysine

Leucine

Histidine

Isoleucine

Arginine

Polyacrylate-13

Polyisobutene

Polysorbate 20

Sorbitan Isostearate

Tromethamine

Sorbitan Stearate

Benzophenone-5

Cholesteryl Nonanoate

Cholesteryl Isostearate

Cholesteryl Chloride

Phenylalanine

Threonine

Valine

Saccharide Isomerate

Tryptophan

Elaeis Guineensis Butter

Sorbitol

Polysilicone-11

Phenyl Trimethicone

Citric Acid

Alcohol

Ethylhexylglycerin

Chlorphenesin

Potassium Sorbate

CI 42090

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Gluconate, Collagen, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Biotin, Caffeine, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Ceramide EOP, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Squalane, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Algae Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Colloidal Oatmeal, Propylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Creatine, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Maris Aqua, Panthenol, Polyglutamic Acid, Methionine, Lysine, Leucine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Stearate, Benzophenone-5, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Chloride, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine, Saccharide Isomerate, Tryptophan, Elaeis Guineensis Butter, Sorbitol, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Citric Acid, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, CI 42090

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.

Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:

Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.

One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.

While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.

The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.

Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.

Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

This ingredient is a silicone elastomer that works as a texture enhancer, adds a silky slip, and also helps absorb excess oil.

Because it's a large macromolecule that's insoluble in water and chemically inert, it's not expected to penetrate or be absorbed into skin.

Human patch tests with a facial lotion containing 1% of this ingredient found no sensitization.

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Explained

  1. 01These ingredients are found in both products.
  2. 02Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
  3. 03Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
  4. 04Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
  5. 05In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
  6. 06While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
  7. 07Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
  8. 08This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
  9. 09This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures…
  10. 10Ci 16035 is a synthetic dark-red dye. This dye is created from an acid called Allura red AC, an azo dye.
  11. 11Azo dyes need to be purified thoroughly before use. This makes them more stable and longer lasting.
  12. 12This dye is commonly used in foods, approved by both the FDA and EFSA.
  13. 13CI 19140 is also known as Tartrazine. Tartrazine is a synthetic dye used in cosmetics, foods, and medicine to add a yellow color.
  14. 14Tartrazine is created from petroleum and is water-soluble.
  15. 15Some people may experience allergies from this dye, especially asthmatics and those with an aspirin intolerance.
  16. 16This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
  17. 17It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
  18. 18Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
  19. 19And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
  20. 20You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

Product

Manuka Lane Vitamin C Eye Cream

Manuka Lane Vitamin C Eye Cream Manuka Lane Vitamin C Eye Cream ingredients explained: Water/Aqua, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coco-Caprylate, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cetearyl Alc…

Source: incidecoder.comView reference →
03

Comparison edit

Read side by side