Peptide Skincare & BeautySkin science and ingredient guides

Skin science article

La Roche-Posay Redermic R Eyes Anti-Aging Eye Cream with Retinol Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid

La Roche-Posay Redermic R Eyes Anti-Aging Eye Cream with Retinol Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine

La Roche-Posay Redermic R Eyes Anti-Aging Eye Cream with Retinol Versus First Aid Beauty Skin Lab Retinol Eye Cream with Triple Hyalurionic Acid

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Caffeine and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.

This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Water

Isocetyl Stearate

Glycerin

Octyldodecanol

Propylene Glycol

Pentylene Glycol

Dimethicone

Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer

Cetearyl Alcohol

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Caffeine

Isohexadecane

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hydroxide

Retinol

Retinyl Linoleate

Adenosine

Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Caprylyl Glycol

Citric Acid

Polysilicone-8

Polysorbate 80

Phenoxyethanol

Water, Isocetyl Stearate, Glycerin, Octyldodecanol, Propylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Caffeine, Isohexadecane, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Retinol, Retinyl Linoleate, Adenosine, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Polysilicone-8, Polysorbate 80, Phenoxyethanol

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Polymethyl Methacrylate

Squalane

Glyceryl Stearate

Butylene Glycol

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Polysorbate 20

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Ceramide Ng

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Tocopherol

Allantoin

Atelocollagen

Avena Sativa Kernel Extract

Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder

Linoleic Acid

Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides

Palmitic Acid

Oleic Acid

Stearic Acid

Triolein

Cholesterol

Sodium Acrylates Copolymer

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Lecithin

Sodium Polyacrylate

Polysilicone-11

Xanthan Gum

Mica

Ethylhexylglycerin

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin)

Stearyl Alcohol

Cetyl Alcohol

Polyethylene

Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer

Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Steareth-30

Dipropylene Glycol

Chlorphenesin

Tin Oxide

CI 77891

Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Glycerin, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 20, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinol, Caffeine, Ceramide Ng, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Tocopherol, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Linoleic Acid, Phytosteryl Canola Glycerides, Palmitic Acid, Oleic Acid, Stearic Acid, Triolein, Cholesterol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Lecithin, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polysilicone-11, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Mica, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-12 Olefin), Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyethylene, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Steareth-30, Dipropylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Tin Oxide, Citric Acid, CI 77891

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).

It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.

That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.

Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.

Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.

Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.

Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.

The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.

Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.

In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:

That last two are worth a closer look.

A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.

Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.

So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).

It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.

The research backs this up as well.

A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.

Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).

Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.

Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.

One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.

It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.

Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.

This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.

Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.

The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.

Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.

The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.

Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.

One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Similar Comparisons

The reference edit

Ingredients, questions
& further reading.

Connected source records selected through this article’s public topic index.

01

Formula cabinet

Ingredients & structured notes

Ingredient index

Ingredients Side-by-side

  1. 01Water
  2. 02Polysorbate 20
  3. 03Glycerin
  4. 04Hamamelis Virginiana Water
  5. 05Glycolic Acid
  6. 06Salicylic Acid
  7. 07Sodium Hydroxide
  8. 08Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
  9. 09Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
  10. 10Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
  11. 11Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
  12. 12Sodium PCA
  13. 13Bisabolol
  14. 14Phenoxyethanol
  15. 15Potassium Sorbate
  16. 16Sodium Benzoate
  17. 17Benzoic Acid
  18. 18Tetrasodium EDTA
  19. 19Citric Acid
  20. 20Water, Polysorbate 20, Glycerin, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Sodium PCA,…
Source · skinsort.com
02

Product index

Related product references

03

Comparison edit

Read side by side