Skin science article
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra Soothing Repair Moisturizer Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra Soothing Repair Moisturizer Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness. This b
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Ultra Soothing Repair Moisturizer Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Barriair cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Ceramide Ng and Linoleic Acid to strengthen the skin barrier and calm redness.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Isocetyl Stearate
Squalane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Pentylene Glycol
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Sodium Hydroxide
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Toluene Sulfonic Acid
Dimethiconol
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Citric Acid
Water, Isocetyl Stearate, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Toluene Sulfonic Acid, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Citric Acid
Propanediol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Oxygen
Ceramide Ng
Linoleic Acid
Linolenic Acid
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Tocopherol
Colloidal Oatmeal
Caprylyl Glycol
Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract
Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Cholesterol
Polyglucuronic Acid
Sodium Polyacrylate Starch
Stearic Acid
Dipropylene Glycol
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
Polypropylene
Polysorbate 80
Steareth-30
Lecithin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Phenoxyethanol
Perfluorohexane
Chlorphenesin
Perfluoromethylcyclopentane
Sodium Benzoate
Potassium Sorbate
Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Oxygen, Ceramide Ng, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Colloidal Oatmeal, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Yeast Extract, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Cholesterol, Polyglucuronic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, Stearic Acid, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Polypropylene, Polysorbate 80, Steareth-30, Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Phenoxyethanol, Perfluorohexane, Chlorphenesin, Perfluoromethylcyclopentane, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!