Skin science article
Lancôme Absolue Revitalizing & Brightening Soft Cream with Grand Rose Extracts Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
Lancôme Absolue Revitalizing & Brightening Soft Cream with Grand Rose Extracts Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles. This barri
Lancôme Absolue Revitalizing & Brightening Soft Cream with Grand Rose Extracts Versus Skinfix Barrier+ Triple Lipid-Peptide Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Capryloyl Salicylic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Octocrylene
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Alcohol Denat.
Dimethicone
Glycerin
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Octyldodecanol
Cetearyl Alcohol
PEG-20
Petrolatum
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Cetyl Alcohol
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Phenoxyethanol
Propylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Zea Mays Oil
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Tocopheryl Acetate
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Oryza Sativa Bran Oil
Cetearyl Glucoside
Caprylyl Glycol
Polyacrylamide
PEG-100 Stearate
Glyceryl Stearate
Xanthan Gum
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Disodium EDTA
Dimethiconol
Pentylene Glycol
Laureth-7
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Jasminum Officinale Extract
Sodium Hydroxide
Oryza Sativa
Limonene
Adenosine
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Linalool
Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract
Citronellol
Coumarin
CI 19140
2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol
Citral
CI 14700
Parfum
Water, Octocrylene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Glycerin, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Octyldodecanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-20, Petrolatum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Zea Mays Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Cetearyl Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylamide, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Disodium EDTA, Dimethiconol, Pentylene Glycol, Laureth-7, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Jasminum Officinale Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Oryza Sativa, Limonene, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Linalool, Malus Domestica Fruit Cell Culture Extract, Citronellol, Coumarin, CI 19140, 2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol, Citral, CI 14700, Parfum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Olus Oil
Cetyl Lactate
Propanediol
C12-16 Alcohols
Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Palmitic Acid
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer
Squalene
Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract
Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate
Glycine Soja Extract
Ceramide NP
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
Helianthus Annuus Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Citric Acid
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Tocopherol
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phytosterols
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Gluconolactone
Phenethyl Alcohol
Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol
Carbomer
Potassium Sorbate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium Benzoate
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olus Oil, Cetyl Lactate, Propanediol, C12-16 Alcohols, Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Dilinoleic Acid/Propanediol Copolymer, Squalene, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phytosteryl Sunflowerseedate, Glycine Soja Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Tocopherol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytosterols, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Gluconolactone, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Pentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.