Skin science article
Lancôme Absolue Rich Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15
Lancôme Absolue Rich Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15 This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin. This anti-aging day moisturiz
Lancôme Absolue Rich Cream Versus Estée Lauder Resilience Multi-Effect Tri-Peptide Face And Neck Creme SPF 15
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Octyldodecanol
Butylene Glycol
Squalane
Glyceryl Stearate
Cetyl Alcohol
Zea Mays Germ Oil
Cocos Nucifera Oil
PEG-100 Stearate
Dimethicone
Cyclohexasiloxane
Beeswax
Myristyl Myristate
CI 14700
CI 19140
Alcohol
Tocopherol
Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol
Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract
Sodium Hydroxide
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Adenosine
PEG-14m
Chlorphenesin
Polysorbate 80
Limonene
Xanthan Gum
Panthenol
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Pentylene Glycol
Linalool
Propanediol
Propylene Glycol
Isohexadecane
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Sorbitan Tristearate
Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer
Carbomer
Sorbitan Oleate
Geraniol
Rose Extract
Disodium EDTA
Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Citronellol
Coumarin
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecanol, Butylene Glycol, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Zea Mays Germ Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Beeswax, Myristyl Myristate, CI 14700, CI 19140, Alcohol, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Adenosine, PEG-14m, Chlorphenesin, Polysorbate 80, Limonene, Xanthan Gum, Panthenol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Pentylene Glycol, Linalool, Propanediol, Propylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Sorbitan Tristearate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Sorbitan Oleate, Geraniol, Rose Extract, Disodium EDTA, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Citronellol, Coumarin, Parfum
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Octocrylene
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Polyethylene
Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate
Petrolatum
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Octyldodecyl Myristate
Hexyldecyl Stearate
Behenyl Alcohol
Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract
Polygonum Aviculare Extract
Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Lactoperoxidase
Glucose Oxidase
Cholesterol
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate
Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Glucose
Algae Extract
Artemia Extract
Acetyl Glucosamine
Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract
Persea Gratissima Oil
C12-16 Alcohols
Trehalose
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caffeine
Palmitic Acid
Glycine Soja Sterols
Caprylyl Glycol
Polymethyl Methacrylate
Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2
Tocopheryl Acetate
Zinc PCA
Polysilicone-11
Faex Extract
Potato Starch Modified
Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl
Potassium Sulfate
Dextran
Hexylene Glycol
BHT
Potassium Sorbate
Mica
CI 77891
Water, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Octocrylene, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Polyethylene, Di-C12-15 Alkyl Fumarate, Petrolatum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Hexyldecyl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Lactoperoxidase, Glucose Oxidase, Cholesterol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucose, Algae Extract, Artemia Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Glyceryl Stearate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Dimethicone, C12-16 Alcohols, Trehalose, Ethylhexylglycerin, PEG-100 Stearate, Caffeine, Palmitic Acid, Glycine Soja Sterols, Caprylyl Glycol, Isohexadecane, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Trifluoroacetyl Tripeptide-2, Tocopheryl Acetate, Zinc PCA, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 80, Faex Extract, Potato Starch Modified, Decarboxy Carnosine Hcl, Xanthan Gum, Parfum, Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Sulfate, Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer, Dextran, Hexylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyethanol, CI 14700, Mica, CI 77891
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a synthetic polymer used to stabilize formulas and give products a "gel-cream" feel.
When applied, this ingredient mostly stays on the surface of skin. Safety reviews have found these polymers safe in cosmetics when made to proper quality standards. Testing also shows they’re unlikely to cause irritation or sensitization at normal use levels.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Ci 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Polysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Sodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.