Skin science article
Lancôme Hydra Zen Anti-Stress Glow Moisturiser Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)
Lancôme Hydra Zen Anti-Stress Glow Moisturiser Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation) This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin. This barrier-repair moisturizer is f
Lancôme Hydra Zen Anti-Stress Glow Moisturiser Versus Beauty of Joseon Dynasty Cream (Old Formulation)
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Glycerin
Pentylene Glycol
Octyldodecanol
Butylene Glycol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Beheneth-10
Squalane
Glycol Palmitate
PCA
Alanine
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Tocopherol
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Hydroxyacetophenone
Sodium Polyacrylate
Sodium Hyaluronate
Sodium PCA
Sodium Lactate
Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Phenylalanine
Arginine
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Valine
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Xanthan Gum
Menthol
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Propylene Glycol
Proline
Isoleucine
Aspartic Acid
Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil
Sorbitol
Serine
Threonine
Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil
Rosa Gallica Flower Extract
Histidine
Citric Acid
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Dextran
Glycine
Parfum
Water, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Octyldodecanol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Beheneth-10, Squalane, Glycol Palmitate, PCA, Alanine, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Tocopherol, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Valine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Xanthan Gum, Menthol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Propylene Glycol, Proline, Isoleucine, Aspartic Acid, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil, Sorbitol, Serine, Threonine, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Rosa Gallica Flower Extract, Histidine, Citric Acid, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Dextran, Glycine, Parfum
Niacinamide
Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters
Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
Hydrogenated Lecithin
C14-28 Alkyl Acid
Stearyl Alcohol
Behenyl Alcohol
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethicone
Adenosine
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Cetearyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
Stearic Acid
Tocopheryl Acetate
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Centella Asiatica Extract
Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Ceramide NP
Trehalose
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
1,2-Hexanediol
Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Cucurbitaceae Extract
Orchid Extract
Honey Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
Phytosphingosine
Ceteareth-20
Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Dipentaerythrityl Hexa C5-9 Acid Esters, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Hydrogenated Lecithin, C14-28 Alkyl Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Adenosine, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Stearic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Trehalose, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, Raphanus Sativus Leaf Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Cucurbitaceae Extract, Orchid Extract, Honey Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Phytosphingosine, Ceteareth-20, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Parfum
Reviews
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.