Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream SPF 25 Versus Shiseido Overnight Wrinkle Resisting Cream

Lancôme Rénergie H.P.N. 300-Peptide Cream SPF 25 Versus Shiseido Overnight Wrinkle Resisting Cream

This anti-aging day moisturizer is formulated around Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.

This anti-aging night moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Caffeine to soften the look of wrinkles.

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%

Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%

Octocrylene 7%

Water

Glycerin

Silica

Dimethicone

Isononyl Isononanoate

Propanediol

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Jojoba Esters

Tocopherol

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Cyclodextrin

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Pisum Sativum Extract

Adenosine

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Citric Acid

Disodium EDTA

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Hydroxyacetophenone

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hydroxide

Titanium Dioxide

Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer

Caprylyl Glycol

Cetyl Alcohol

Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax

Polyglycerin-3

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Xanthan Gum

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dimethiconol

Benzyl Alcohol

Geraniol

Limonene

CI 17200

Phenoxyethanol

Sodium Benzoate

Parfum

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 3%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Octocrylene 7%, Water, Glycerin, Silica, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Propanediol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Jojoba Esters, Tocopherol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Pisum Sativum Extract, Adenosine, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract, Hydroxyacetophenone, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Titanium Dioxide, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Polyglycerin-3, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, Xanthan Gum, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethiconol, Benzyl Alcohol, Geraniol, Limonene, CI 17200, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Butylene Glycol

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Niacinamide

Paraffinum Liquidum

Microcrystalline Wax

Behenyl Alcohol

PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate

Trimethylsiloxysilicate

Glyceryl Stearate

Stearyl Alcohol

PEG-6

PEG-32

Isododecane

Paraffin

PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether

Alcohol

Trisodium EDTA

Tocopheryl Acetate

Sodium Citrate

Sodium Metaphosphate

Caffeine

CI 77492

Sodium Metabisulfite

PPG-3 Dipivalate

Linalool

Sapindus Mukorossi Peel Extract

Citronellol

Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract

CI 77491

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Rubus Suavissimus Leaf Extract

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate

Citrus Junos Seed Extract

BHT

Uncaria Gambir Extract

Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Eucheuma Serra/Grateloupia Sparsa/Saccharina Angustata/Ulva Linza/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract

Saccharina Angustata/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Cellulose

Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Paraffinum Liquidum, Microcrystalline Wax, Behenyl Alcohol, PEG-60 Glyceryl Isostearate, Dimethicone, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearyl Alcohol, PEG-6, PEG-32, Isododecane, Paraffin, Phenoxyethanol, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Alcohol, Trisodium EDTA, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Citrate, Parfum, Sodium Metaphosphate, Xanthan Gum, Caffeine, Citric Acid, CI 77492, Sodium Metabisulfite, PPG-3 Dipivalate, Linalool, Tocopherol, Sapindus Mukorossi Peel Extract, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Angelica Keiskei Leaf/Stem Extract, CI 77491, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Rubus Suavissimus Leaf Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Citrus Junos Seed Extract, BHT, Uncaria Gambir Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Eucheuma Serra/Grateloupia Sparsa/Saccharina Angustata/Ulva Linza/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Curcuma Longa Rhizome Extract, Saccharina Angustata/Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Cellulose

Alternatives

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil is from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. It is a skin conditioning agent and emollient that sits on top of skin to soften and hydrate it.

Over 98% of the oil is made up of long-chain fatty acids, mostly aachidic acid (61%), docosenoic acid (~16%), and docosadienoic acid (~18%).

This combination is not really found in any other plant oil and is the reason this is one of the most stable botanical oils available.

Some studies show it to be more stable than jojoba oil, helps a product resist going rancid, and can help extend the shelf life of a formula.

It also naturally contains vitamin E and phytosterols that give it a mild antioxidant benefit.

This ingredient is typically used from around 1% to fairly high levels since it's gentle; it's well-tolerated and low on the irritation scale.

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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