Skin science article
Laneige Water Bank Moisture Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration
Laneige Water Bank Moisture Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Saccharide Isomerate and Hydrogenated Lecithin to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin. This calming moi
Laneige Water Bank Moisture Cream Versus First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Saccharide Isomerate and Hydrogenated Lecithin to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This calming moisturizer is formulated around Colloidal Oatmeal and Squalane to calm redness and hydrate skin.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Propanediol
Glycerin
Methyl Trimethicone
Phenyl Trimethicone
Caprylyl Methicone
1,2-Hexanediol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Maris Aqua
Saccharide Isomerate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Cetearyl Alcohol
Butylene Glycol
Parfum
Glyceryl Caprylate
Glyceryl Stearate
Stearic Acid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium EDTA
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Tromethamine
Sorbitan Isostearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Hyaluronic Acid
Magnesium Sulfate
Calcium Chloride
Linalool
Sodium Citrate
Citric Acid
Hexyl Cinnamal
Benzyl Salicylate
Butylphenyl Methylpropional
Limonene
Beta Vulgaris Root Extract
Geraniol
Citronellol
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Manganese Sulfate
Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Tocopherol
Zinc Sulfate
Lecithin
Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
Nasturtium Officinale Extract
Glycine Soja Oil
Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Methyl Trimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Caprylyl Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Maris Aqua, Saccharide Isomerate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Hyaluronic Acid, Magnesium Sulfate, Calcium Chloride, Linalool, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Limonene, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Geraniol, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Manganese Sulfate, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Zinc Sulfate, Lecithin, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Lepidium Sativum Sprout Extract, Ascorbyl Glucoside
Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Dimethicone
Squalane
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Xanthan Gum
Allantoin
Sodium Hydroxide
Tetrasodium EDTA
Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Ceramide NP
Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
Colloidal Oatmeal 0.5%, Water, Stearic Acid, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Squalane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Sodium Hydroxide, Tetrasodium EDTA, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!