Skin science article
Lisén Timeless Elegance Lift-Up Ampoule Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1%
Lisén Timeless Elegance Lift-Up Ampoule Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1% This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier. This anti-aging serum is formula
Lisén Timeless Elegance Lift-Up Ampoule Versus The Ordinary Multi Peptides + Copper Peptide 1%
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Lactococcus Ferment Lysate and Copper Tripeptide-1 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Methylpropanediol
Glycerin
Diglycerin
Betaine
Niacinamide
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Polyquaternium-51
Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract
Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
Olea Europaea Fruit Extract
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Phellinus Linteus Extract
Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Sodium Hyaluronate
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Glycosyl Trehalose
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
Xanthan Gum
Carbomer
Tromethamine
Cellulose Gum
Raffinose
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Adenosine
Disodium EDTA
Lecithin
Caramel
Sodium Polyacrylate
Pvm/Ma Copolymer
Butylene Glycol
Panthenol
Propylene Glycol
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Pullulan
Folic Acid
Acacia Senegal Gum
Gold
Ceramide NP
Cholesterol
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Parfum
1,2-Hexanediol
Phenoxyethanol
Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl Glycol
Limonene
Benzyl Salicylate
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Diglycerin, Betaine, Niacinamide, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Polyquaternium-51, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Callus Culture Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Sambucus Nigra Fruit Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Rosa Centifolia Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Glycosyl Trehalose, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Cellulose Gum, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Caramel, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Pullulan, Folic Acid, Acacia Senegal Gum, Gold, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, PEG/PPG-17/6 Copolymer, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Parfum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Limonene, Benzyl Salicylate
Lactococcus Ferment Lysate
Copper Tripeptide-1
Pentapeptide-18
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Allantoin
Glycine
Alanine
Serine
Valine
Isoleucine
Proline
Threonine
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Arginine
Aspartic Acid
Trehalose
Fructose
Glucose
Maltose
Urea
Sodium PCA
PCA
Sodium Lactate
Citric Acid
Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Sodium Chloride
Sodium Hydroxide
Pentylene Glycol
Polysorbate 20
Dimethyl Isosorbide
Sodium Benzoate
Chlorphenesin
Water, Glycerin, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Pentapeptide-18, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetylarginyltryptophyl Diphenylglycine, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Glycine, Alanine, Serine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Threonine, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Trehalose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Urea, Sodium PCA, PCA, Sodium Lactate, Citric Acid, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Hydroxide, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
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Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acacia Senegal Gum has skin soothing, thickening, and formulation stabilizing properties. It comes from the Acacia tree that is native to sub-Saharan Africa.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.